I have all kinds of bulbs, daffodils, tulips, crocus, hyacinth, etc. I will be moving soon and I want to take them with me. As well as irises, lilies. I can't leave them, and I don't want them to die if I move them too early, please help
I live in zone 5, my bulbs are coming up, and I just found out I need to move, will they survive?
They should. The bulbs need to be dried out and stored until proper planting time. The iris can be put in a pot until you have a permanent place for them.
Reply:no!
Friday, May 21, 2010
What kind of flowers to take? (details)?
I've been invited to the house of a man and his wife who have done alot for me recently.
I want to take some flowers, but i don't really know whats appropriate.
i don't know what their favorites are either.
i was thinking daffodils and daisies, do they go together well?
What kind of flowers to take? (details)?
That will be fine.
Reply:I think that is a lovely bouquet! Nice spring flowers! Maybe get some baby's breath in there too, and some tulips and/or irises.... That would be lovely!
PS You can get tulips and daisies in different colours - that might brighten the bouquet instead of leaving it white and yellow.
http://www.teleflora.com/category.asp?rc...
Reply:Maybe add some alstromeria lilies and freesia's to the bunch. Freesia's have the most wonderful fragrance.
Reply:I would say it would be okay if you put them together. I would also suggest to add some tulips which would make it look even better.
dance shoes
I want to take some flowers, but i don't really know whats appropriate.
i don't know what their favorites are either.
i was thinking daffodils and daisies, do they go together well?
What kind of flowers to take? (details)?
That will be fine.
Reply:I think that is a lovely bouquet! Nice spring flowers! Maybe get some baby's breath in there too, and some tulips and/or irises.... That would be lovely!
PS You can get tulips and daisies in different colours - that might brighten the bouquet instead of leaving it white and yellow.
http://www.teleflora.com/category.asp?rc...
Reply:Maybe add some alstromeria lilies and freesia's to the bunch. Freesia's have the most wonderful fragrance.
Reply:I would say it would be okay if you put them together. I would also suggest to add some tulips which would make it look even better.
dance shoes
What do i do with my daffodils in my garden now that they are dying off?
You can either leave them in-situ until the leaves yellow, then it's OK to cut them off to tidy them up. Or you could lift the bulbs (without damaging the leaves) and 'heel them in' somewhere out of the way ready to replant at the end of the year. Daffs are quite untidy as they die down so if you have a small garden you might want to move them out of sight. I keep mine in large pots and then sink the pots directly into the border in October and take them out again when I plant up the summer bedding and need the space. I line up the pots around the side of the house out of the way, give them a feed and leave them to it. Good luck :-)
What do i do with my daffodils in my garden now that they are dying off?
cut them off really close to the ground then leave them
Reply:Leave them alone. They will multiply and then next spring, even more will bloom.
Reply:trim the daffodils at the bottom close to ground leave them, they will sleep, next spring they will grow again
Reply:You cut back daffodil leaves after they've bloomed and the leaves have yellowed and withered. Leaving the leaves on this long allows the bulbs to collect nourishment for next years blooms.
Reply:Leave them where they are even though they do not look very attractive when the leaves are dying off. You can always fold the leaves over and put a tie around them. The bulbs should multiply for next year.
Reply:dont do anything leave them to dry up let all the goodness back in bulb ok
What do i do with my daffodils in my garden now that they are dying off?
cut them off really close to the ground then leave them
Reply:Leave them alone. They will multiply and then next spring, even more will bloom.
Reply:trim the daffodils at the bottom close to ground leave them, they will sleep, next spring they will grow again
Reply:You cut back daffodil leaves after they've bloomed and the leaves have yellowed and withered. Leaving the leaves on this long allows the bulbs to collect nourishment for next years blooms.
Reply:Leave them where they are even though they do not look very attractive when the leaves are dying off. You can always fold the leaves over and put a tie around them. The bulbs should multiply for next year.
Reply:dont do anything leave them to dry up let all the goodness back in bulb ok
I want to plant some daffodils today, but the ground is wet...?
Should I wait for it to dry out, and try again in a few days?
I want to plant some daffodils today, but the ground is wet...?
Wait for about three weeks, then start succession planting them, a few each week; then you will have continual blooms for awhile.
Daffodils require a pH of 6 - 7, and a mix low in soluble salts. A lightweight peat mix is desirable. About 1/3 of the bulbs should be above the soil surface
Reply:yes you dont want them to drown. wait till some really warm sunny days come so it can thrive
Reply:Let it dry out some...then you can plant them....make sure you put some kind of mulch on top of them...that helps with the weeds too...and they like that little cover over them...the heat will help them Bloom....Beautifully!!!
Good luck and happy gardening!!!
Reply:You won't "drown" them. If you had already planted them - the rain wouldn't bother them.
But it's awfully messy and difficult to plant when the soil is heavy and wet. Much much easier when it's a bit drier. So I'd wait - for your sake, not the bulbs.
Where have the bulbs been up until now? They usually get planted in the fall - they need a couple months of cold dormancy in order to bloom well.
I want to plant some daffodils today, but the ground is wet...?
Wait for about three weeks, then start succession planting them, a few each week; then you will have continual blooms for awhile.
Daffodils require a pH of 6 - 7, and a mix low in soluble salts. A lightweight peat mix is desirable. About 1/3 of the bulbs should be above the soil surface
Reply:yes you dont want them to drown. wait till some really warm sunny days come so it can thrive
Reply:Let it dry out some...then you can plant them....make sure you put some kind of mulch on top of them...that helps with the weeds too...and they like that little cover over them...the heat will help them Bloom....Beautifully!!!
Good luck and happy gardening!!!
Reply:You won't "drown" them. If you had already planted them - the rain wouldn't bother them.
But it's awfully messy and difficult to plant when the soil is heavy and wet. Much much easier when it's a bit drier. So I'd wait - for your sake, not the bulbs.
Where have the bulbs been up until now? They usually get planted in the fall - they need a couple months of cold dormancy in order to bloom well.
When is the best time to dig up and transplant daffodils?
After the leaves have completely dried up, you're good to go.
When is the best time to dig up and transplant daffodils?
I have transplanted them in the Spring, or early fall...both times were a success. I waited until the flowers were done blooming...etc. hope that helps.
When is the best time to dig up and transplant daffodils?
I have transplanted them in the Spring, or early fall...both times were a success. I waited until the flowers were done blooming...etc. hope that helps.
Whats your favourite type of flower?
I love daffodils, so majestic and a sign of spring, wonderful
Whats your favourite type of flower?
Roses, oh and I just hope the little girl is found alive and well
Reply:here's a shocker: lily-of-the-valley. dainty, blooms in spring, spreads on its own and smells like heaven...
did you know that different colors of bearded iris have different fragrances?
i make jelly from violets. i've won "best of fair" in 3 county fairs!
now,looking over the other answers i want to give a shout-out to long island gail.....
Reply:Carnation are the ones for me.
Reply:Lillies, the peace flower
Reply:I love the amaryllis so majestic and a sign of winter, wonderful.
Reply:Rose
Reply:Lily of the valley- I like scented flowers.
Reply:I love them all..
My Favorite tho would be the Lily... Beautiful flower and Plant
and for sentimental reasons
Reply:I LOVE ALL FLOWERS AS THEY ARE ALL BEAUTIFUL,BUT HAVING A FAVORITE I AM SPOILED FOR CHOICE , BUT I WILL CHOOSE CHRYSANTHEMUMS
Reply:love in a mist
Reply:I adore fresias and sunflowers
Reply:I love red roses, my husband gives them to me
Reply:Ah yes daffodils are lovely and do brighten up the day, however, my absolute favourite flower is the Rose.
JULIET:
'Tis but thy name that is my enemy;
Thou art thyself, though not a Montague.
What's Montague? it is nor hand, nor foot,
Nor arm, nor face, nor any other part
Belonging to a man. O, be some other name!
What's in a name? that which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet;
So Romeo would, were he not Romeo call'd,
Retain that dear perfection which he owes
Without that title. Romeo, doff thy name,
And for that name which is no part of thee
Take all myself.
Reply:I love Lillys, i think they are beautiful!
XXX
Reply:Orchids their delicate petals, subtle fragrance, and vulnerability make them both a joy to behold and a challenge to keep alive. I have a beautiful white orchid i have kept for two years, it is a constant joy.
Reply:I like Cattleya orchids the most. They're so exquisite, fragrant, and beautiful.
Reply:pink roses, they are beautiful
Reply:i bought a purple rose bush at the local nursery last spring...it is absolutely beautiful....i think it is called the moon rose...
Apparel
Whats your favourite type of flower?
Roses, oh and I just hope the little girl is found alive and well
Reply:here's a shocker: lily-of-the-valley. dainty, blooms in spring, spreads on its own and smells like heaven...
did you know that different colors of bearded iris have different fragrances?
i make jelly from violets. i've won "best of fair" in 3 county fairs!
now,looking over the other answers i want to give a shout-out to long island gail.....
Reply:Carnation are the ones for me.
Reply:Lillies, the peace flower
Reply:I love the amaryllis so majestic and a sign of winter, wonderful.
Reply:Rose
Reply:Lily of the valley- I like scented flowers.
Reply:I love them all..
My Favorite tho would be the Lily... Beautiful flower and Plant
and for sentimental reasons
Reply:I LOVE ALL FLOWERS AS THEY ARE ALL BEAUTIFUL,BUT HAVING A FAVORITE I AM SPOILED FOR CHOICE , BUT I WILL CHOOSE CHRYSANTHEMUMS
Reply:love in a mist
Reply:I adore fresias and sunflowers
Reply:I love red roses, my husband gives them to me
Reply:Ah yes daffodils are lovely and do brighten up the day, however, my absolute favourite flower is the Rose.
JULIET:
'Tis but thy name that is my enemy;
Thou art thyself, though not a Montague.
What's Montague? it is nor hand, nor foot,
Nor arm, nor face, nor any other part
Belonging to a man. O, be some other name!
What's in a name? that which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet;
So Romeo would, were he not Romeo call'd,
Retain that dear perfection which he owes
Without that title. Romeo, doff thy name,
And for that name which is no part of thee
Take all myself.
Reply:I love Lillys, i think they are beautiful!
XXX
Reply:Orchids their delicate petals, subtle fragrance, and vulnerability make them both a joy to behold and a challenge to keep alive. I have a beautiful white orchid i have kept for two years, it is a constant joy.
Reply:I like Cattleya orchids the most. They're so exquisite, fragrant, and beautiful.
Reply:pink roses, they are beautiful
Reply:i bought a purple rose bush at the local nursery last spring...it is absolutely beautiful....i think it is called the moon rose...
Apparel
I need info about planting bulbs in an area that gets morning sun?
I'm attempting to help my friend plant a flower garden. She wants all bulbs planted this spring in front of her house. She gets morning sun on that area, but around noon it gets shady. I need to know everything! What do I need to do to prepare the earth for planting? They are crocus', tulips and daffodils. Any and all help would be greatly appriciated.
I need info about planting bulbs in an area that gets morning sun?
First off, planting them now will probably result in blooms NEXT year. You can place them in the fridge for a couple of weeks to "winter" and fool them if she wants blooms this year. Planting bulbs is easy, simply dig a shallow hole and plant the bulb (in a Tennessee climate) no more than 1 inch below the surface. Other than that they should do fine.
Reply:They should all do well in morning sun. When I plant a new bed I work up the soil well and instead of planting them singly I dig the depth of the whole plot at the same time..i.e. 3'x5' or whatever your plan is. Each pkg of bulbs will have the planting depth. Work a fair amount of bone meal into the soil in the bed.....it's a slow releasing plant food. Then set the bulbs in at the correct depth and cover with soil....daffodil and tulips will be deeper. I would plant the crocus in the front of the bed since they are considerably shorter. They won't be planted as deep either. I hope this helps. You can get more info if you type 'planting bulbs' in your search window....there should be lots of sites out there....good luck!
I need info about planting bulbs in an area that gets morning sun?
First off, planting them now will probably result in blooms NEXT year. You can place them in the fridge for a couple of weeks to "winter" and fool them if she wants blooms this year. Planting bulbs is easy, simply dig a shallow hole and plant the bulb (in a Tennessee climate) no more than 1 inch below the surface. Other than that they should do fine.
Reply:They should all do well in morning sun. When I plant a new bed I work up the soil well and instead of planting them singly I dig the depth of the whole plot at the same time..i.e. 3'x5' or whatever your plan is. Each pkg of bulbs will have the planting depth. Work a fair amount of bone meal into the soil in the bed.....it's a slow releasing plant food. Then set the bulbs in at the correct depth and cover with soil....daffodil and tulips will be deeper. I would plant the crocus in the front of the bed since they are considerably shorter. They won't be planted as deep either. I hope this helps. You can get more info if you type 'planting bulbs' in your search window....there should be lots of sites out there....good luck!
What are some common examples of monocots and dicots?
i need examples that grow in gardens...daffodils, tulips, etc. help me! pretty please with toast and spam.
What are some common examples of monocots and dicots?
Monocots
corn
blade of grass
tulip lily
Dicots
bean
geranium
snapdragon
citrus
books title a
What are some common examples of monocots and dicots?
Monocots
corn
blade of grass
tulip lily
Dicots
bean
geranium
snapdragon
citrus
books title a
Store-bought mixed flower planter - daffodils are done - remove bulb, or just trim back leaves and stems?
I got the flower planter at costco. It had tulips, daffodils and pansies. The daffodils and tulips are done, but the pansies are still blooming. Should I take out the bulbs of the tulips and daffodils or just trim the leaves and stems back to the bulb?
Store-bought mixed flower planter - daffodils are done - remove bulb, or just trim back leaves and stems?
If you don't care about the bulbs blooming again, then you can take out the bulbs or trim the leaves back to the bulb.
But if you want to have the bulbs bloom again in the future, leave them alone while the leaves are still green. While the leaves are green, the bulb is forming the food (from photosynthesis) it will need when it goes dormant next winter so that it can bloom next spring. Once the leaves begin to yellow, then you can cut the leaves back.
Reply:Unfortunately, if you want to continue to have tulips and daffodils, you should not cut back the leaves. The leaves are sucking up the sunshine that is keeping the bulb and healthy and is helping the bulb to make new bulbs. If you cut of the plants source of photosynthesis, you are ending its life. Bulbs can be taken up in the Fall and divided or lef in the ground but should not be taken up now. Trim the stems off tulips and daffodlils or the plant will spend its time making a seed head rather than nurture the bulb.
Store-bought mixed flower planter - daffodils are done - remove bulb, or just trim back leaves and stems?
If you don't care about the bulbs blooming again, then you can take out the bulbs or trim the leaves back to the bulb.
But if you want to have the bulbs bloom again in the future, leave them alone while the leaves are still green. While the leaves are green, the bulb is forming the food (from photosynthesis) it will need when it goes dormant next winter so that it can bloom next spring. Once the leaves begin to yellow, then you can cut the leaves back.
Reply:Unfortunately, if you want to continue to have tulips and daffodils, you should not cut back the leaves. The leaves are sucking up the sunshine that is keeping the bulb and healthy and is helping the bulb to make new bulbs. If you cut of the plants source of photosynthesis, you are ending its life. Bulbs can be taken up in the Fall and divided or lef in the ground but should not be taken up now. Trim the stems off tulips and daffodlils or the plant will spend its time making a seed head rather than nurture the bulb.
Can Spring bulb flowers be dug up before summer's end?
I have already posted two questions regarding my beloved flowers, as they froze two days ago after they had just started blooming and I was wondering if the blooms could somehow be "thawed-out" to enjoy them in bouquets(would still welcome answers about this!). I have lived at my rental property for almost six years and this was the best year yet-they were looking absolutely beautiful as they have become well established (daffodils, hyacinths, etc.). Now I am going to be moving and since my landlord is not a "flower person" they will literally be mowed over after I leave. Where I am moving to I will not be able to replant them immediately and may have to store them for awhile-can this be done? If so, how do I store them? Also, they will need to be removed before the greenery has died off and completed it cycle-will this kill them?I will be moving mid-summer and I live in northwest PA if this makes a difference! Fellow gardeners and flower people please help!
Can Spring bulb flowers be dug up before summer's end?
As bulbs finish blooming, remove faded blooms to eliminate seed set that reduces bulb growth. Maintain foliage for six weeks for good bulb growth and rebloom the following season. Do not cut or braid foliage, but allow it to die down naturally. Foliage can be removed when it has yellowed, fallen over, and comes loose when slightly tugged.
Once all have gone dormant they can be safely dug up and stored. There are powdered fungicides made especially for storing bulbs to prevent them rotting if you wish. Other wise store them in wood shaving or peat moss. Be careful not to bruise your bulbs before storing, and make sure you check them periodically through winter. If you find any that are rotting, discard them in the trash (not the compost). If you store bulbs in peat moss or vermiculite be sure to use fresh material The best temp is 35 - 40 F. If your basement is generally warmer than 40F, try putting your bulbs on newspaper in the coolest darkest corner with a concrete floor.
Next fall plant them as you did originally adding bone meal or organic bulb fetilizer.
http://www.johnscheepers.com/index.html
They sell Dutch Organic Bulb food (7-10-5 fertilizer)
Next spring feed the bulbs. Tulips are "heavy feeders" and require fertilization as foliage emerges and again after flowering. Fertilize other bulbs after flowering to support foliage and increase bulb size.
Reply:To answer, I pose this question to you: Is it worth the time and effort to dig them all up, dry them, store them, and then finally replant them? or is it better to buy a new selection of bulbs, design the new bulb and garden area, plant them and enjoy your new garden? I ask this because individually each bulb is worth, what, .10c or up to .30c you are inveritable going to slice some bulbs with the digging tool, and kill them. There will be others that just don't survive the drying process...
The process can be done: After they are done blooming, leave them alone for as long as you can. When you decide it's time to dig, use your garden spade and as carefully as you can, dig the bulbs up. Remember they are up to 8" deep, and the top isn't directly above the bulb, it's likely it's 2" or so, one way or the other. If you cut a bulb with the shovel, it's probably a gonner. Once the bulbs are dug, rinse them clean of dirt, and lay them someplace (out of the sun, and where the vermin can't eat-em) to dry. Once the tops have dried up, cut them back, and store the bulbs in paper bags. It's best to have a little Perilite or Sawdust in the bag... not to cover them, but to 'absorb' moisture. Keep the bags in a cool dry place. In the fall replant as you desire, be sure to use a bulb-starter fertilizer at the time of planting.
I hope that this helps
Good luck-
Can Spring bulb flowers be dug up before summer's end?
As bulbs finish blooming, remove faded blooms to eliminate seed set that reduces bulb growth. Maintain foliage for six weeks for good bulb growth and rebloom the following season. Do not cut or braid foliage, but allow it to die down naturally. Foliage can be removed when it has yellowed, fallen over, and comes loose when slightly tugged.
Once all have gone dormant they can be safely dug up and stored. There are powdered fungicides made especially for storing bulbs to prevent them rotting if you wish. Other wise store them in wood shaving or peat moss. Be careful not to bruise your bulbs before storing, and make sure you check them periodically through winter. If you find any that are rotting, discard them in the trash (not the compost). If you store bulbs in peat moss or vermiculite be sure to use fresh material The best temp is 35 - 40 F. If your basement is generally warmer than 40F, try putting your bulbs on newspaper in the coolest darkest corner with a concrete floor.
Next fall plant them as you did originally adding bone meal or organic bulb fetilizer.
http://www.johnscheepers.com/index.html
They sell Dutch Organic Bulb food (7-10-5 fertilizer)
Next spring feed the bulbs. Tulips are "heavy feeders" and require fertilization as foliage emerges and again after flowering. Fertilize other bulbs after flowering to support foliage and increase bulb size.
Reply:To answer, I pose this question to you: Is it worth the time and effort to dig them all up, dry them, store them, and then finally replant them? or is it better to buy a new selection of bulbs, design the new bulb and garden area, plant them and enjoy your new garden? I ask this because individually each bulb is worth, what, .10c or up to .30c you are inveritable going to slice some bulbs with the digging tool, and kill them. There will be others that just don't survive the drying process...
The process can be done: After they are done blooming, leave them alone for as long as you can. When you decide it's time to dig, use your garden spade and as carefully as you can, dig the bulbs up. Remember they are up to 8" deep, and the top isn't directly above the bulb, it's likely it's 2" or so, one way or the other. If you cut a bulb with the shovel, it's probably a gonner. Once the bulbs are dug, rinse them clean of dirt, and lay them someplace (out of the sun, and where the vermin can't eat-em) to dry. Once the tops have dried up, cut them back, and store the bulbs in paper bags. It's best to have a little Perilite or Sawdust in the bag... not to cover them, but to 'absorb' moisture. Keep the bags in a cool dry place. In the fall replant as you desire, be sure to use a bulb-starter fertilizer at the time of planting.
I hope that this helps
Good luck-
Hi guys i want to grow some plants, flowers or vines in my room. do you think its a good idea? suggestions?
i was going to go with some type of those green vines that curl down when they grow. i don't know the name. tulips and daffodils.
Hi guys i want to grow some plants, flowers or vines in my room. do you think its a good idea? suggestions?
You can buy tulips and daffodils in pots, but you will need to have a good cold place to put them for several months after they stop flowering and the foliage has died back (don't cut off the leaves until they are fully "dead", the leaves contain nutrition that feeds the bulb.)
Otherwise it is generally hard to grow outdoor flowers inside.
There are many good houseplants to choose from, you just need to check on your light conditions to determine what plants will be best.
In my opinion, plants are a wonderful addition to any room, they help to clean the air of toxins and give oxygen back.
There are many herbs you can grow indoors depending on the conditions and they smell great too.
Good luck.
Reply:huh? tulips and daffodills aren't vines.
a fuscia might be nice as it has flowers (if your room gets a lot of sun. Otherwise choose non-flowering greens or purples. Some people are alergic to flowers and some flowers need bees and butterflies. But heat rises and you'll need to water accordingly and not on humid days. If you don't have time to fuss with this why not get faux flowering vines.
Reply:i wouldnt put them in my room but if you want i guess you'll make a pretty exciting room puting that plant in there but remember it grows very big and it will end up covering your whole room sooner or later
Reply:Try philodendrons. They grow without hardly any natural light. They come in lots of shades as well as variegated white/green. The vines grow readily and if you break one off, just stick it in water and it will root. Another easy, almost foolproof plant is the wandering jew plant, which has shades of purple in it.
Hi guys i want to grow some plants, flowers or vines in my room. do you think its a good idea? suggestions?
You can buy tulips and daffodils in pots, but you will need to have a good cold place to put them for several months after they stop flowering and the foliage has died back (don't cut off the leaves until they are fully "dead", the leaves contain nutrition that feeds the bulb.)
Otherwise it is generally hard to grow outdoor flowers inside.
There are many good houseplants to choose from, you just need to check on your light conditions to determine what plants will be best.
In my opinion, plants are a wonderful addition to any room, they help to clean the air of toxins and give oxygen back.
There are many herbs you can grow indoors depending on the conditions and they smell great too.
Good luck.
Reply:huh? tulips and daffodills aren't vines.
a fuscia might be nice as it has flowers (if your room gets a lot of sun. Otherwise choose non-flowering greens or purples. Some people are alergic to flowers and some flowers need bees and butterflies. But heat rises and you'll need to water accordingly and not on humid days. If you don't have time to fuss with this why not get faux flowering vines.
Reply:i wouldnt put them in my room but if you want i guess you'll make a pretty exciting room puting that plant in there but remember it grows very big and it will end up covering your whole room sooner or later
Reply:Try philodendrons. They grow without hardly any natural light. They come in lots of shades as well as variegated white/green. The vines grow readily and if you break one off, just stick it in water and it will root. Another easy, almost foolproof plant is the wandering jew plant, which has shades of purple in it.
How do i take care of a beech hedge?
it is our first year in our new house and we are novice gardeners so advice would be appreciated. it is just starting to bud now and a few leaves are appearing, when do we start to trim it? are there any good web sites out there that will give us basic gardening advice? like what do we do with the stems of daffodils once the flower dies? we honestly have no idea!!! we also have mint and it is growing like crazy....how do we stop it??? any help appreciated
How do i take care of a beech hedge?
.... and finally for a 'mint' answer .... Mint is a rampant plant - it will quickly spread to cover a vast area by using underground stems to travel. Dig the whole lot out asap, discard any excess and put one or two lots in pots. You can either sink the pot into the soil which will contain it, or just keep a pot near the kitchen door for use. Next Spring the pots will be full of congested roots so empty the pots then take five or six 'stands' with some root on the bottom and re-plant these in fresh compost and discard (or freeze) the rest. Hope this helps! Leave daffs until the leaves yellow then chop them off. As for your Beech - trim off any over-vigorous shoots as you go through the year and save your main prune for the autumn when you can safely prune one-third of the height / width. Try the link below for lots of garden advice. Good luck! :-)
Reply:I'm not much of a gardener myself but my father's house has a large beech hedge - you'll see it going completely nuts for the next couple of months now! Cut it in the autumn and don't be afraid to take quite a bit off - it'll grow back next year just like it has this year. As for your daffodils, some people believe you should tie the top of the dead flower in a knot until all the 'goodness' has gone back into the bulb. But I have a garden full of daffs and I've never done this, I just cut them off and they come back year after year. Can't help you with your mint dilemma I'm afraid! Best of luck with your new garden - hope the weather stays good so you can enjoy it!
Reply:The other posted answered your beech hedge question well so I'll try to answer your daffodil question.
Daffodil leaves make the energy, first for this year's flower(s), second to fatten up the bulb for next year and third, if there is still extra energy, to create a new bud for next year down in the bulb. They may also divide themselves and create new bulblets which will become new bulbs over time.
If you cut the leaves off immediately after they flower they will not usually have enough energy to be able to make buds for next year's blooms. That's why most people to leave the leaves until they turn yellow. I suppose, if the soil is very good and the leaves aren't cut immediately after they bloom, then they might be able to keep going every year. In my poor soil, they often dwindle away even though I leave the leaves.
Most people tie the leaves together or braid them so they look more tidy while they are starting to die back. That is not necessary, just aesthetic.
mens leather sandals
How do i take care of a beech hedge?
.... and finally for a 'mint' answer .... Mint is a rampant plant - it will quickly spread to cover a vast area by using underground stems to travel. Dig the whole lot out asap, discard any excess and put one or two lots in pots. You can either sink the pot into the soil which will contain it, or just keep a pot near the kitchen door for use. Next Spring the pots will be full of congested roots so empty the pots then take five or six 'stands' with some root on the bottom and re-plant these in fresh compost and discard (or freeze) the rest. Hope this helps! Leave daffs until the leaves yellow then chop them off. As for your Beech - trim off any over-vigorous shoots as you go through the year and save your main prune for the autumn when you can safely prune one-third of the height / width. Try the link below for lots of garden advice. Good luck! :-)
Reply:I'm not much of a gardener myself but my father's house has a large beech hedge - you'll see it going completely nuts for the next couple of months now! Cut it in the autumn and don't be afraid to take quite a bit off - it'll grow back next year just like it has this year. As for your daffodils, some people believe you should tie the top of the dead flower in a knot until all the 'goodness' has gone back into the bulb. But I have a garden full of daffs and I've never done this, I just cut them off and they come back year after year. Can't help you with your mint dilemma I'm afraid! Best of luck with your new garden - hope the weather stays good so you can enjoy it!
Reply:The other posted answered your beech hedge question well so I'll try to answer your daffodil question.
Daffodil leaves make the energy, first for this year's flower(s), second to fatten up the bulb for next year and third, if there is still extra energy, to create a new bud for next year down in the bulb. They may also divide themselves and create new bulblets which will become new bulbs over time.
If you cut the leaves off immediately after they flower they will not usually have enough energy to be able to make buds for next year's blooms. That's why most people to leave the leaves until they turn yellow. I suppose, if the soil is very good and the leaves aren't cut immediately after they bloom, then they might be able to keep going every year. In my poor soil, they often dwindle away even though I leave the leaves.
Most people tie the leaves together or braid them so they look more tidy while they are starting to die back. That is not necessary, just aesthetic.
mens leather sandals
Iwould like detailed explanation for placing flowers in the press so that they come out looking as it was?
how should a snapdragon be placed, or an orchid or a daffodil. There has to be a best way for a flower to be placed. So far I have only had luck with single layer flowers like pansy, hydrangea, greenery. I am making some pressed flower greeting cards so silica gell would not work for me. The flowers have to be flat but still recogizable.
Thanks. Hope someone can help.
Iwould like detailed explanation for placing flowers in the press so that they come out looking as it was?
I had to press plants for horticultural assignments and found that some of the more moist stemmed plants just did not turn out.
I found successful display by carefully cutting all foliage of the back of the item (otherwise the leaves etc become too crowded after pressing).
Be very careful how you put the top layer onto sample, otherwise you find the leaves etc bent back the wrong way later and you can't pull them back after they have dried.
The more time you spend on the sample with trimming and careful laying out the better your results.
I used the white wood glue to stick mine to paper as it dries clear. Only use as much as you need though as it dries shiny. The trick is to lay sample face down on paper towel (after sample has been pressed and is completely dry). lightly paint the back with wood glue with a small flat paint brush (don't go overboard) and then carefully place on paper the right way up and dry of any excess glue with another piece of paper towel. Do a few trials to get your technique right - to much glue can make paper 'ripple'. I don't know if the flowers you mentioned can be successfully pressed. Good luck.
Thanks. Hope someone can help.
Iwould like detailed explanation for placing flowers in the press so that they come out looking as it was?
I had to press plants for horticultural assignments and found that some of the more moist stemmed plants just did not turn out.
I found successful display by carefully cutting all foliage of the back of the item (otherwise the leaves etc become too crowded after pressing).
Be very careful how you put the top layer onto sample, otherwise you find the leaves etc bent back the wrong way later and you can't pull them back after they have dried.
The more time you spend on the sample with trimming and careful laying out the better your results.
I used the white wood glue to stick mine to paper as it dries clear. Only use as much as you need though as it dries shiny. The trick is to lay sample face down on paper towel (after sample has been pressed and is completely dry). lightly paint the back with wood glue with a small flat paint brush (don't go overboard) and then carefully place on paper the right way up and dry of any excess glue with another piece of paper towel. Do a few trials to get your technique right - to much glue can make paper 'ripple'. I don't know if the flowers you mentioned can be successfully pressed. Good luck.
Is it too early to plant budding daffodils, tulips and hyacinths in S.W. Missouri?
I just bought the above plants that have already grown shoots, some a couple of inches high. Snow is predicted in 2 days. When should I transplant these bulbs?
Is it too early to plant budding daffodils, tulips and hyacinths in S.W. Missouri?
I wouldn't. The ones you bought have been forced, or grown in a green house and will not grow outside at this time. Enjoy them indoors this year, and plant them outside after all dager of frost has passed. Let the foliage ripen, and remove it once it turns brown. They might come up again next spring.
Reply:You can put them into a pot and treat them as a house plant, allowing them to flower indoors this season. Then when the weather is safe you can transplant them outside. Once they are done blooming try to give them as much light as possible until the leafs start dying back on their own.
Is it too early to plant budding daffodils, tulips and hyacinths in S.W. Missouri?
I wouldn't. The ones you bought have been forced, or grown in a green house and will not grow outside at this time. Enjoy them indoors this year, and plant them outside after all dager of frost has passed. Let the foliage ripen, and remove it once it turns brown. They might come up again next spring.
Reply:You can put them into a pot and treat them as a house plant, allowing them to flower indoors this season. Then when the weather is safe you can transplant them outside. Once they are done blooming try to give them as much light as possible until the leafs start dying back on their own.
What flowers are in bloom right now where you live?
I have crocus,tulips, and daffodils,currently covered in snow:(
What flowers are in bloom right now where you live?
I'm in Alaska..none yet but the springs I'm told are awesome here with lots of fireweed and other things
Reply:same
Reply:pansys daffodils crocus snapdragons the weather here has been very warm in arleta caliofnia
Reply:same as you, no snow, but 20 degrees last night, tulips were laid over this morning
Reply:I live in Los Angeles, and alot of flowers are in bloom, I just don't know the name of them
Reply:azalea, forsythia, violets, dogwood, cherry blossoms...maybe a few more too.
Reply:Tulips, daffodils and crocus, we don't have the snow now though. My onions are coming up also. We will have frost for the next 5 nights though.
Reply:Pansies, Azeleas, Lillies, good grief.... everythings blooming here in South Carolina! If you listen real close you can hear me sneeze. ;)
Reply:London, daffodils, snowdrops, wild bluebells beuatiful spring flowers
Reply:all of the flowers you just mentioned have already faded here in South Carolina including the Bradford flowering pear, Hyacinth and Forsythia. Dogwood trees, Japanese magnolia, Japanese wisteria vines, azaleas and tulips are the only flowers I've seen around these past few weeks.
Reply:Crocuses in Montana, no snow here
I saw a southfacing yard with a wall behind it had daffodils and tulips
Reply:Daffodils, Tulips, and Azaleas
Reply:I'm in a 'salad slinging' match with the rabbits already :(
I had some daffodils come up...and they are now hunched over due to a cold snap. My crocus never came up...I wonder if some of the critters dug them up or made off with them.
Mr. and Mrs. Mallard, and Mr. and Mrs. Morning Dove are already parking themselves right where I put my birdseed and water bowls down...which is, of course...where my tulips would normally be....
Reply:daffs , tulips, bouganvillea, solanum, brugmansia, petunias, roses,, kalanchoe and thats just from my window now.
Reply:Daffodils
Tulips
Aubretia
Azalias
Primulas
vinca
Easter lilies
Pansies
All the above are in full bloom in the garden. Several others are showing buds - rhodadendron, clematis, alpines.
In the greenhouse, the pelargoniums are flowering profusely and all the lavendar and surfinia cuttings look ready for re-potting.
But, I think , it's still too risky to plant non-hardy varieties outdoors - a touch of frost could damage young growth.
Reply:I have roses in my yard:)
Reply:i have daffodils and tulips...no snow
Reply:Forsythia, hyacinths, cherry, plum, daffodils, camelia's. Snow-drops and crocus are now expired :(. Bridal wreath spyrea, the odd rhodo, lots of heather and even some rosemary. This is the N.W. Pacific.
Reply:I live in Berkeley, California:
daffodils, lupin, lavender, carnations, plum trees, pretty much everything actually
Reply:The azaleas were blooming a couple of weeks ago. I say blooming, it is an understatement, it was an explosion of colors! My jasmin was blooming at the same time too. Now I have a few irises, roses, and my passionflower started blooming yesterday. No way I will see snow here at this time of the year :) Houston isn't the best location for a ski resort.
Reply:pretty ones
Reply:Frangipani, Hybiscus, Bougainvillea, Spathodia, Spathophyllum, Vinca, Murraya Exotica, Heliconia, Strelitzia, Oleander, Azaleas, Brownea Grandiceps..... etc. etc.
Reply:All colors Azaleas abound. The grounds of many of the older home places are covered with these, alternating colors and baby's breath mixed in between. Gorgeous!
What flowers are in bloom right now where you live?
I'm in Alaska..none yet but the springs I'm told are awesome here with lots of fireweed and other things
Reply:same
Reply:pansys daffodils crocus snapdragons the weather here has been very warm in arleta caliofnia
Reply:same as you, no snow, but 20 degrees last night, tulips were laid over this morning
Reply:I live in Los Angeles, and alot of flowers are in bloom, I just don't know the name of them
Reply:azalea, forsythia, violets, dogwood, cherry blossoms...maybe a few more too.
Reply:Tulips, daffodils and crocus, we don't have the snow now though. My onions are coming up also. We will have frost for the next 5 nights though.
Reply:Pansies, Azeleas, Lillies, good grief.... everythings blooming here in South Carolina! If you listen real close you can hear me sneeze. ;)
Reply:London, daffodils, snowdrops, wild bluebells beuatiful spring flowers
Reply:all of the flowers you just mentioned have already faded here in South Carolina including the Bradford flowering pear, Hyacinth and Forsythia. Dogwood trees, Japanese magnolia, Japanese wisteria vines, azaleas and tulips are the only flowers I've seen around these past few weeks.
Reply:Crocuses in Montana, no snow here
I saw a southfacing yard with a wall behind it had daffodils and tulips
Reply:Daffodils, Tulips, and Azaleas
Reply:I'm in a 'salad slinging' match with the rabbits already :(
I had some daffodils come up...and they are now hunched over due to a cold snap. My crocus never came up...I wonder if some of the critters dug them up or made off with them.
Mr. and Mrs. Mallard, and Mr. and Mrs. Morning Dove are already parking themselves right where I put my birdseed and water bowls down...which is, of course...where my tulips would normally be....
Reply:daffs , tulips, bouganvillea, solanum, brugmansia, petunias, roses,, kalanchoe and thats just from my window now.
Reply:Daffodils
Tulips
Aubretia
Azalias
Primulas
vinca
Easter lilies
Pansies
All the above are in full bloom in the garden. Several others are showing buds - rhodadendron, clematis, alpines.
In the greenhouse, the pelargoniums are flowering profusely and all the lavendar and surfinia cuttings look ready for re-potting.
But, I think , it's still too risky to plant non-hardy varieties outdoors - a touch of frost could damage young growth.
Reply:I have roses in my yard:)
Reply:i have daffodils and tulips...no snow
Reply:Forsythia, hyacinths, cherry, plum, daffodils, camelia's. Snow-drops and crocus are now expired :(. Bridal wreath spyrea, the odd rhodo, lots of heather and even some rosemary. This is the N.W. Pacific.
Reply:I live in Berkeley, California:
daffodils, lupin, lavender, carnations, plum trees, pretty much everything actually
Reply:The azaleas were blooming a couple of weeks ago. I say blooming, it is an understatement, it was an explosion of colors! My jasmin was blooming at the same time too. Now I have a few irises, roses, and my passionflower started blooming yesterday. No way I will see snow here at this time of the year :) Houston isn't the best location for a ski resort.
Reply:pretty ones
Reply:Frangipani, Hybiscus, Bougainvillea, Spathodia, Spathophyllum, Vinca, Murraya Exotica, Heliconia, Strelitzia, Oleander, Azaleas, Brownea Grandiceps..... etc. etc.
Reply:All colors Azaleas abound. The grounds of many of the older home places are covered with these, alternating colors and baby's breath mixed in between. Gorgeous!
Do you have any flowers coming up yet? My daffodils are just starting to poke through the ground!?
in the southeastern US
Do you have any flowers coming up yet? My daffodils are just starting to poke through the ground!?
Not quite yet. utah. Theres a lot of snow still and today it is snowing...again.. and about 35 degrees. I expect my daffies and my tulips to start poking out in about two weeks or so. I just planted a LOAD of daffies and tulips and hiacynths (in the back) and I can't wait till they start comingup. Then the bearded iris will bloom, then all those asiatic and oriental lillies for the spring/summer and then the gladiolas will bloom and then the bearded iris again (reblooming variety) with the autum blooming crocus. Then it'll snow again , but by next winter, my 6 heleborus shrubs will be big enough to bloom through the winter. They like to get their flowers frozen, they just thaw out and bloom! I'll have flowers all year long if I play my cards right! I'll also have more flowering and ever green type plants in the front when I rip out those ugly thorny things that like sun but are in the shade. Whoever planted this yard before me was a bit nuts. Didn't do their research. Good luck with your daffies. Enjoy them well! I love daffies. do you have the "green" variety? Pistachio?
Reply:Lucky you!!! I live in Indiana, and today we were expecting 11 inches of snow. Thank goodness we didn't get near that much. This is the time of year when I live with my nose in all the plant catalogs and long for spring.
Reply:I have plenty of groups dotted around.......... one is just about to flower........... almost teasing!!!
Reply:northeastern us and my dafodills are half way up !
probaby because we were at worst in the 40s all winter and we saw 70s for a week straight
Reply:My snow drops, ( Gallanthus sp.) have been up for over a month now. This is coastal mid-atlantic, zone 7.
Reply:In SW Missouri, things have been poking up all month under the leaves and mulch. It is all I can do to refrain from uncovering them, and I know it is too early. The early crocuses are up and a couple of wildflowers in the woods look almost ready to burst. I have hellebores, both Christmas rose and Lenten rose, that are ready to bloom, and snowdrops are up but not in bloom yet. Daffodils have been up for weeks but when it gets cold, they stop growing until it is warm again. I saw my autumn crocuses were up an inch or so, already. Things seem to be a bit early because of the warm winter we are having. I can't wait for spring!
Reply:not here, still have ice and snow in the yard NE US 27 degrees this morning
Reply:Oh, I'm jealous of you!
I can't wait till mine pop up, but it won't be for another month. (San Francisco area)
Bleaching
Do you have any flowers coming up yet? My daffodils are just starting to poke through the ground!?
Not quite yet. utah. Theres a lot of snow still and today it is snowing...again.. and about 35 degrees. I expect my daffies and my tulips to start poking out in about two weeks or so. I just planted a LOAD of daffies and tulips and hiacynths (in the back) and I can't wait till they start comingup. Then the bearded iris will bloom, then all those asiatic and oriental lillies for the spring/summer and then the gladiolas will bloom and then the bearded iris again (reblooming variety) with the autum blooming crocus. Then it'll snow again , but by next winter, my 6 heleborus shrubs will be big enough to bloom through the winter. They like to get their flowers frozen, they just thaw out and bloom! I'll have flowers all year long if I play my cards right! I'll also have more flowering and ever green type plants in the front when I rip out those ugly thorny things that like sun but are in the shade. Whoever planted this yard before me was a bit nuts. Didn't do their research. Good luck with your daffies. Enjoy them well! I love daffies. do you have the "green" variety? Pistachio?
Reply:Lucky you!!! I live in Indiana, and today we were expecting 11 inches of snow. Thank goodness we didn't get near that much. This is the time of year when I live with my nose in all the plant catalogs and long for spring.
Reply:I have plenty of groups dotted around.......... one is just about to flower........... almost teasing!!!
Reply:northeastern us and my dafodills are half way up !
probaby because we were at worst in the 40s all winter and we saw 70s for a week straight
Reply:My snow drops, ( Gallanthus sp.) have been up for over a month now. This is coastal mid-atlantic, zone 7.
Reply:In SW Missouri, things have been poking up all month under the leaves and mulch. It is all I can do to refrain from uncovering them, and I know it is too early. The early crocuses are up and a couple of wildflowers in the woods look almost ready to burst. I have hellebores, both Christmas rose and Lenten rose, that are ready to bloom, and snowdrops are up but not in bloom yet. Daffodils have been up for weeks but when it gets cold, they stop growing until it is warm again. I saw my autumn crocuses were up an inch or so, already. Things seem to be a bit early because of the warm winter we are having. I can't wait for spring!
Reply:not here, still have ice and snow in the yard NE US 27 degrees this morning
Reply:Oh, I'm jealous of you!
I can't wait till mine pop up, but it won't be for another month. (San Francisco area)
Bleaching
If weed be so bad for you why it is natural? God's creation y'all is weed as much as a daffodil I puf chronic
I think all natural drugs are better than manmade - shrooms are natural too. But, everything in moderation! The reason why it's illegal is because the drug companies and the government can't harness it and make money off of it.
If weed be so bad for you why it is natural? God's creation y'all is weed as much as a daffodil I puf chronic
"Its natural" is an excuse to put stuff in your body?
Arsenic and thousands of other deadly toxins are all-natural.
"But, gee- 'weed' has medicinal values"
Yeah, so do most toxins- small doses of toxins like digitalis or botulism are routinely used for medicinal purposes.
WHY smoke weed? Because it makes you feel better. Therefore it is, by definition, a drug and also, by definition, mind-altering.
Does God WANT us chemically changing our moods? Not as far as we can tell by the Bible, but it IS your choice- you can choose to serve God with a clear mind, or mess up your mind with any of the common drugs available to us- not only weed, but alcohol, nicotine, and caffine as well.
Reply:The creation isn`t bad its how we use the creation.
Reply:Well, mushrooms are natural too, but I wouldn't go eating all of them if I were you. Because some of them are poisonous.
Poison ivy is natural too, but don't go touching it.
Reply:Is Gabrielle Roth really dead or you just jivin?
Reply:I can tell you 'puf chronic'
Reply:long history of medicinal use, and mention was best for rope
been illegal less than fifty years
usually smoked for better effect,
for medicine is eaten or as tea.
reduces male hormone testosterone, leading to mental problems
and can cause lung damage (when smoked)
otherwise, no adverse effects.
Reply:Its not that its natural, its that it makes people feel good. Government and big buisness doesn't want people feeling good with natural products unless they can make a profit off of it.
Here is the story behind the banning of marijuana....
http://www.cannabis.com/untoldstory/#IND...
Reply:What The! You re a disgrace to the black nation!
Reply:"God's creation"??? That must be some pretty strong stuff you're smoking there...
As well as an invisible omnipotent creator being, are you also seeing any pink elephants?
Reply:in response to the answer you gave me...i do take care of my children both myself and ex-husband...men w/out children don't know how to deal w/ them or associate w/ them and i would rather date someone who does have children and i'm 30 so it would be better to know that my children won't be a reason that they stop dating me...my children are a complete package w/ me!!
Reply:TAKE IT FROM AN X POT HEAD I finally read the intruction book on life I did this after ending up in a detox ward because i did thirty doses o pcp in three days and new i could of died. When i got out of detox i went to counsling for six months and saw alot of pot heads they all only agreed on one thing,pot is a gat way drug ,and when it doesn't get you high like it does in the begining youl move on to drug or alchole addiction. Beleave me i have been clean for twenty seven years now and have been thrue the hole pot thing now with my three sons.Pot is not a natural plant to this planet, becouse the planet is uder the curse of death you can find out if you read the book Basic Instructions Before Leaving Earth known as the Holly Bible if you want to know more about this curse it's in the B. I. B. L. E. THE Bible is the basic instuctions before leaving earth and it tells how all drugs taken to change consious states are considerd by god to be sorcerys these kind of people go at death to the place prepared for the fallen angels of satin. At christ return the curse will be lifted and people live to be hundreades of years old like they did in old testment times. I hope when you asked this question you wanted a reall answere becouse this is the real truth pot will kill you if not your body then your soul it will.We live in a time when the wourld is being attacted by natural thing earth quakes sonomies huracanes tornadoes and your going to see them closer and closer together the reason is in the last book of revelations in the Bible cheack it out ther is know greater high than knowing your going to live forever to play robinson coruso on a millon planets for a trillon years flying threw the universe at the speed of thought. Have a good life sincerly Michael im2mesup@yahoo.com
If weed be so bad for you why it is natural? God's creation y'all is weed as much as a daffodil I puf chronic
"Its natural" is an excuse to put stuff in your body?
Arsenic and thousands of other deadly toxins are all-natural.
"But, gee- 'weed' has medicinal values"
Yeah, so do most toxins- small doses of toxins like digitalis or botulism are routinely used for medicinal purposes.
WHY smoke weed? Because it makes you feel better. Therefore it is, by definition, a drug and also, by definition, mind-altering.
Does God WANT us chemically changing our moods? Not as far as we can tell by the Bible, but it IS your choice- you can choose to serve God with a clear mind, or mess up your mind with any of the common drugs available to us- not only weed, but alcohol, nicotine, and caffine as well.
Reply:The creation isn`t bad its how we use the creation.
Reply:Well, mushrooms are natural too, but I wouldn't go eating all of them if I were you. Because some of them are poisonous.
Poison ivy is natural too, but don't go touching it.
Reply:Is Gabrielle Roth really dead or you just jivin?
Reply:I can tell you 'puf chronic'
Reply:long history of medicinal use, and mention was best for rope
been illegal less than fifty years
usually smoked for better effect,
for medicine is eaten or as tea.
reduces male hormone testosterone, leading to mental problems
and can cause lung damage (when smoked)
otherwise, no adverse effects.
Reply:Its not that its natural, its that it makes people feel good. Government and big buisness doesn't want people feeling good with natural products unless they can make a profit off of it.
Here is the story behind the banning of marijuana....
http://www.cannabis.com/untoldstory/#IND...
Reply:What The! You re a disgrace to the black nation!
Reply:"God's creation"??? That must be some pretty strong stuff you're smoking there...
As well as an invisible omnipotent creator being, are you also seeing any pink elephants?
Reply:in response to the answer you gave me...i do take care of my children both myself and ex-husband...men w/out children don't know how to deal w/ them or associate w/ them and i would rather date someone who does have children and i'm 30 so it would be better to know that my children won't be a reason that they stop dating me...my children are a complete package w/ me!!
Reply:TAKE IT FROM AN X POT HEAD I finally read the intruction book on life I did this after ending up in a detox ward because i did thirty doses o pcp in three days and new i could of died. When i got out of detox i went to counsling for six months and saw alot of pot heads they all only agreed on one thing,pot is a gat way drug ,and when it doesn't get you high like it does in the begining youl move on to drug or alchole addiction. Beleave me i have been clean for twenty seven years now and have been thrue the hole pot thing now with my three sons.Pot is not a natural plant to this planet, becouse the planet is uder the curse of death you can find out if you read the book Basic Instructions Before Leaving Earth known as the Holly Bible if you want to know more about this curse it's in the B. I. B. L. E. THE Bible is the basic instuctions before leaving earth and it tells how all drugs taken to change consious states are considerd by god to be sorcerys these kind of people go at death to the place prepared for the fallen angels of satin. At christ return the curse will be lifted and people live to be hundreades of years old like they did in old testment times. I hope when you asked this question you wanted a reall answere becouse this is the real truth pot will kill you if not your body then your soul it will.We live in a time when the wourld is being attacted by natural thing earth quakes sonomies huracanes tornadoes and your going to see them closer and closer together the reason is in the last book of revelations in the Bible cheack it out ther is know greater high than knowing your going to live forever to play robinson coruso on a millon planets for a trillon years flying threw the universe at the speed of thought. Have a good life sincerly Michael im2mesup@yahoo.com
I have a plant of tulips and mini daffodils that have finished blooming...what do I do with the bulbs now?
If you have a nice sunny spot in your yard then you can plant them. Just make sure you leave all the leaves and greenery on the bulbs because they need to absorb all the sun they can get in order to rebloom next spring. The greenery will eventually die back after the bulbs have absorbed the energy.
Addition: As long as you experience a cold winter then you can put them in the ground and leave them there. If you do not live in an area where it gets cold then can leave them in their container and set them in a sunny location so they can absorb the light energy and then you will to keep them in the refrigerator during the winter months if you want them to bloom again.
Additional addition :) Then it should be just fine for you to find a sunny spot in your yard to let them soak up the sun, die back, and then reemerge next Spring.
Good Luck
I have a plant of tulips and mini daffodils that have finished blooming...what do I do with the bulbs now?
I've always heard that they need to be allowed to die down and then pulled from the ground and placed in the freezer for a few months. Then bring out and plant around Thanksgiving day. This simulates the ground freezing. But I'm in So Cal and I used to leave them in the ground year around. I had blooms year after year. I would fertilize with blood meal when I was fertilizing my azaleas. Hope this helps.
Reply:leave them in the ground, they are getting stronger after flowering. daffodils will come back, maybe even flower in fall. tulips my not make it in a warm area. may have to replant. give it a year see what happens. dont trim till tips of stalks discolor
Reply:when the greens turn brown, cut them down and plant in soil outside for next year. be sure to mulch them well and sprinkle with bone meal.
Addition: As long as you experience a cold winter then you can put them in the ground and leave them there. If you do not live in an area where it gets cold then can leave them in their container and set them in a sunny location so they can absorb the light energy and then you will to keep them in the refrigerator during the winter months if you want them to bloom again.
Additional addition :) Then it should be just fine for you to find a sunny spot in your yard to let them soak up the sun, die back, and then reemerge next Spring.
Good Luck
I have a plant of tulips and mini daffodils that have finished blooming...what do I do with the bulbs now?
I've always heard that they need to be allowed to die down and then pulled from the ground and placed in the freezer for a few months. Then bring out and plant around Thanksgiving day. This simulates the ground freezing. But I'm in So Cal and I used to leave them in the ground year around. I had blooms year after year. I would fertilize with blood meal when I was fertilizing my azaleas. Hope this helps.
Reply:leave them in the ground, they are getting stronger after flowering. daffodils will come back, maybe even flower in fall. tulips my not make it in a warm area. may have to replant. give it a year see what happens. dont trim till tips of stalks discolor
Reply:when the greens turn brown, cut them down and plant in soil outside for next year. be sure to mulch them well and sprinkle with bone meal.
Statistically, is the earth more likely to be wiped out by a giant asteroid then by the sun expanding?
I've heard that the sun will eventually expand in 50 million years time destroying the earth and making a mess of my uncle Albert's prize daffodils, but what are the statistical chances of us earthlets being smushed into space goo by a giant meteor (with a tax bill attached to it) before we even get that far?
I'm thinking of investing my money into sun block shares so I'm going to factor your answers into it.
Statistically, is the earth more likely to be wiped out by a giant asteroid then by the sun expanding?
The question is which would happen first. The sun will expand, but not in merely millions of years, but billions. By then we will certainly not be here to worry about it.
We honestly do not have enough information to predict when an asteroid will inflict heavy damage on the Earth. "Wiped out" seems to me to mean completely devoid of life. An asteroid is not going to do that because life is very resilient. There are even some creatures who thrive living in ice. Others that live in the infernal heat near underwater volcanic eruptions.
We do need to be concerned about the loss of millions of humans due to the impact of asteroid(s) upon the Earth.
It is arrogant of our scientists to assume that because we can't see any asteroids coming from strange angles towards us that none can possibly exist.
Earth is very well protected from asteroids by other planets sweeping up asteroids with their gravity. Earth is protected from solar winds by the magnetic field generated by the molten lead spinning at Earth's core. That allows Earth to have an atmosphere that helps burn up small asteroids/meteors.
We need to balance our resources between different survival strategies. In other words, we need to protect from nuclear war, biological weapons, starvation, diseases, and from asteroids. There are other things too, but you get the idea.
As unlikely as it sounds at least one threatening asteroid is heading this way. We need to concentrate on surviving the impact or on preventing the impact or both. Developing the means to survive an impact will help us against other threats. Developing the means to prevent an impact will also help against other threats. I believe it is best to concentrate on having good shelters and food creating ability to survive an impact, since the increased food can always be used and the shelters are good in case other bad things happen.
In any case humans need to figure out a way to get to another solar system before this one expires.
Reply:One thing to keep in mind is that we can tell when an asteroid will hit us as many as 50 years in advance, so it is likely that we can devise some plan to divert the asteroid. However 50 million years is a long time, and it is more likely that humans won't be around that long and won't be able to protect the earth from asteroids, comets, etc. and one will hit us before the sun gets us. In my opinion, either we will destroy ourselves with nuclear weapons or some earthly disaster (massive climate change or earthquake) would be the most iminant threat.
Reply:The sun would given enough time definitely destroy the Earth through ageing to a red giant, estimated to happen sometime in the next 5 billion years (P=1). As our technology is now on an exponential improvement curve, asteroids although a threat now, will cease to be a threat in the near future (%26lt;%26lt;5 billion years) because of this, so there is a very remote chance of Earth being KO'd by an asteroid (P%26lt;%26lt;1). However, we are rapidly approaching something called the Sinuglarity (due to our advancing technology), which may well 'do for us all' in a matter of a few decades. So rather than the Sun or some errant space debris destroying the Earth, we might just do the job ourselves (P=0.5), assuming global warming doesn't stop us before hand.(P=0.5)
Reply:I am in no way any sort of expert but the earth is regularly being
bonked by meteorites, space detritus, and has been hit by small asteroids in the past. It could be millions of years before the sun
burns itself out in some way so I think you should just relax and go on living your normal life. Have the faith that God will provide
us with the basics as long as they are needed.
Reply:there is not enough information on either possibility to approach the problem statistically. However it is commonly believed it will be many millions of years before the sun runs out of hydrogen as becomes a red giant.
The earth has been struck many times by asteroids. Whether it would cause the destruction of the earth would I suppose depend on such things as the size of the asteroid. What angle it was to the earth when it struck, etc.
Reply:The giant asteroid is more likely.
Reply:If the sun will wipe us out stop putting coal on!
Reply:What do you mean by wipe out?
It will not take a 10 km wide asteroid to destroy civilisation. Civilisation is a fragile thing dependent on economies. Many scientists believe that all it needs is a 500m wide asteroid to hit in the right place to so stress the world economies that civilisation goes down the tubes. That, to us in the first world, is tantamount to being wiped out.
And a 500m asteroid is not just 5% the size of a 10km one. It is 8000 times smaller volumetrically, and probably 8000 times more common in space. Therefore, though an extinction event asteroid like the dinosaur killer is reckoned to impact just every 100,000,000 years, you can probably divide that by a factor of almost 10,000 for a hit likely to bring down civilisation.
That is one every 10,000 years.
There are those scientists that believe that swarms of asteroids or cometary particles come around periodically, so that the current observed flux of likely impactors does not give a true indication of the historic incidence of catastrophic impacts.
So, insofar as the collapse of civilisation means the end of life as most of us know it, the asteroids and comets win out over the sun.
Look up Clune and Napier. Also Taurid meteors.
Reply:Ouch!
I do not know too much but this is a little I do believe is correct.
Our sun is busy burning hydrogen (1 in the periodic table), It can carry on up the periodic table till it gets to ~Fe (26 in table) every element up the table yields less energy, so I guess it will burn cooler, %26amp; probably expand. I guess once it becomes a red giant we are histoy.
Sunscreens are a questionable field. The only ones that are 100% safe are oxides- that just reflect. The absorbtion of UV by most sunscreens results in the absorbed energy being re-transmitted usually as IR eneryg to the underlaying cells may also cause some dammage. Its like the ozone layer was it was very difficult to work out the full facts with opposing sides.
Reply:Statistics are a funny thing... You can make them do almost anything you want. The answer to your question will change with time.. today we are far more likely to be wiped out by an asteroid than the sun exploding... but in 50 million years (conditional that we have not already been wiped out by an asteroid) then the chances are higher that we will suffer exploding sun syndrome.
Another way to interprete your question, would be 'which is likely to happen 1st? Death by asteroid? Or Exploding Sun? I would have to double check the exact numbers, but it is known the earth has been hit by killer asteroids multiple times in its life, maybe something like every 5 million years or so... So it seems likely that we will be hit again before the sun explodes.
Of course, if rephrasing the question to be about the extinction of the human species, or destruction altogether of the planet; it is incredibly unlikely that we will be hit by an asteroid that will destroy the planet (break it into pieces lets say). It could make a big mess like the one that is believed to have wiped out the dinosaurs.. however humans are a bit smarter than dinos, so if that type of even happened, I think there is a good chance that at least some remenants of humanity will survive.
So now we balance a good chance of being smacked with a big asteroid before the sun goes Red Giant, but a good chance that humans won't be completely wiped out, versus the certainy that the sun will expand, with the certainty that it will wipe out all life on earth... Of course if by then humans have colonized other solar systems then the human race will still nonetheless survive.... what was your question again?
Reply:Youre' right. Our Sun is expanding--but no not 50 million years . Roughly in about 5 million years ---(does it sound awfully close-well by then youd' have had progenies 10n to the power of 10x20x3..so it isnt' awfully close really- ) our Sun would have expanded a hundred odd times and wd' cover nearly 25% of The Horizon and belching fire from 1/10 of the present distance. A chicken barbecue free of cost in about 15 seconds flat , if you like it that way please so long as you are live enough to retrieve it. And by the way no amount of prayers or love for Uncle Albert's Daffodils can change the scenario. But wait a minute- a small succour-- by then Man(who would have become immensely intelligent , innovative and cunning would have long departed Earth and colonised a far off satellite of an another Sun or may be dug deep into the bowels of ou own Mother Earth and stay figuring out way to escape for escape he must or else be doomed in a gigantic cataclysm never again to inhabit this beautiful creation of That Almighty who only knows how HE shall help us or punish us or pardon us!!Bye bye My Friend All TheBest
Reply:They say the earth will be too hot to live on in about a billion years, then the sun will expand in about four billion. But an asteroid big enough to destroy most of all life on earth hits the earth on the average, about every fifty or sixty million years.
Reply:The chances of either is small compared to the certainty of the whole of the Yellowstone National Park region exploding when the mega volcano underneath it goes off as it is *BOUND* to do in the next few centuries, taking out a very big chunk of North America, thereby causing a massive global winter
Invest in buffalo farming- food and a thick coat !
Reply:The time for the sun to expand is a few billion years into the future. The probability of that happening is 1. So assuming we keep technologically advancing and will get to the point where we could divert an asteroid, I say the expanding sun would win out.
Reply:The chances of a mighty meteor hitting the Earth are remote. However the probability of Sun expanding and destroying Earth are even lesser.
Sun has existed for more than 5 billion years. The mechanism of Sun staying in equilibrium[in size] is due to two factors. The infernal and mind boggling fusion reactions in the interior of Sun result in temperatures of millions of degrees leading to expansion of gasses. Simultaneously the gravitation of Sun tries to resist this change and squeezes it back to its original shape. We can of course expect that hydrogen fuel which powers Sun[Sun is known as Helios] might get exuasted putting an end to these reactions. Even in that evntuality the Sun might turn out to be a dead star or a dwarf. We therefore see no chance of Sun expading to envelope 93 million miles which is its present distance from Earth.
Reply:we would have destroyed ourselfs long before that , but sun block shares sounds a good idea what factor were you thinking of
Reply:The sun WILL expand to eat the earth, the chances are 100%. A global killing asteroid could destroy the earth, but the fragments would still exist, to be eaten by the sun.
Reply:Well, statistically, of course the earth is more likely to be wiped out by a giant asteroid. We have a date (give or take a million years) for the sun's expansion, while the whole asteroid business is pot luck - there may be one sweeping towards us as I write, ready to hit us in about 2066 (reckon I'll be gone by then).
Incidentally, nice to see somebody making a 50 million year business plan - none of this mincing around with 3 or 5 year plans for you, I see. Well done
Reply:I RECKON AN ASTEROID!
Reply:I don't think sunblock's a good investment. We know the sun's going to wipe us out in about 5 billion years, but the frequency of impacts from meteors larger than 10 km across is believed to be once in 100 million years (give or take a bit). I'm not keen on odds of 50:1
Reply:ofcourse no , earth is the most protected planet in our solar system ,beside the far distance between earth and the sun .in my opinion i think that the earth would be wiped out by a black hole .AND GOD KNOW .
Reply:i don't think you ll be around to worry about that , do you
Reply:What are you talking about Willis?
Reply:The sun will go red giant is about 5 billion years although lots of really nasty end of the world sun stuff will happen before then, but not for at least a couple of billions years.
We get hit by a city buster about once every 100 years and a biggy every 10,000 years or so, so the impact is the most likely event. Although saying that there is a chance it will never happen whilst the sun going red giant - that's 100%.
Oh and the sun block is a good idea because the sun is getting hotter (I wont bore you with lots of stellar physics but trust me it is), also global warming will mean more people going out in the sun and hence needing sub block, that's in addition to the depletion of the ozone layer.
Reply:Should I cancel the milk?
Reply:No. all current life on earth has a higher statistical chance of being destroyed by a large asteroid than by the suns expansion. However, a large asteroid is not able to destroy the earth.
So life on earth has a statistically higher chance of being destroyed by an asteroid.
But the sun has a higher statistical change of being destroyed by the sun.
I'm thinking of investing my money into sun block shares so I'm going to factor your answers into it.
Statistically, is the earth more likely to be wiped out by a giant asteroid then by the sun expanding?
The question is which would happen first. The sun will expand, but not in merely millions of years, but billions. By then we will certainly not be here to worry about it.
We honestly do not have enough information to predict when an asteroid will inflict heavy damage on the Earth. "Wiped out" seems to me to mean completely devoid of life. An asteroid is not going to do that because life is very resilient. There are even some creatures who thrive living in ice. Others that live in the infernal heat near underwater volcanic eruptions.
We do need to be concerned about the loss of millions of humans due to the impact of asteroid(s) upon the Earth.
It is arrogant of our scientists to assume that because we can't see any asteroids coming from strange angles towards us that none can possibly exist.
Earth is very well protected from asteroids by other planets sweeping up asteroids with their gravity. Earth is protected from solar winds by the magnetic field generated by the molten lead spinning at Earth's core. That allows Earth to have an atmosphere that helps burn up small asteroids/meteors.
We need to balance our resources between different survival strategies. In other words, we need to protect from nuclear war, biological weapons, starvation, diseases, and from asteroids. There are other things too, but you get the idea.
As unlikely as it sounds at least one threatening asteroid is heading this way. We need to concentrate on surviving the impact or on preventing the impact or both. Developing the means to survive an impact will help us against other threats. Developing the means to prevent an impact will also help against other threats. I believe it is best to concentrate on having good shelters and food creating ability to survive an impact, since the increased food can always be used and the shelters are good in case other bad things happen.
In any case humans need to figure out a way to get to another solar system before this one expires.
Reply:One thing to keep in mind is that we can tell when an asteroid will hit us as many as 50 years in advance, so it is likely that we can devise some plan to divert the asteroid. However 50 million years is a long time, and it is more likely that humans won't be around that long and won't be able to protect the earth from asteroids, comets, etc. and one will hit us before the sun gets us. In my opinion, either we will destroy ourselves with nuclear weapons or some earthly disaster (massive climate change or earthquake) would be the most iminant threat.
Reply:The sun would given enough time definitely destroy the Earth through ageing to a red giant, estimated to happen sometime in the next 5 billion years (P=1). As our technology is now on an exponential improvement curve, asteroids although a threat now, will cease to be a threat in the near future (%26lt;%26lt;5 billion years) because of this, so there is a very remote chance of Earth being KO'd by an asteroid (P%26lt;%26lt;1). However, we are rapidly approaching something called the Sinuglarity (due to our advancing technology), which may well 'do for us all' in a matter of a few decades. So rather than the Sun or some errant space debris destroying the Earth, we might just do the job ourselves (P=0.5), assuming global warming doesn't stop us before hand.(P=0.5)
Reply:I am in no way any sort of expert but the earth is regularly being
bonked by meteorites, space detritus, and has been hit by small asteroids in the past. It could be millions of years before the sun
burns itself out in some way so I think you should just relax and go on living your normal life. Have the faith that God will provide
us with the basics as long as they are needed.
Reply:there is not enough information on either possibility to approach the problem statistically. However it is commonly believed it will be many millions of years before the sun runs out of hydrogen as becomes a red giant.
The earth has been struck many times by asteroids. Whether it would cause the destruction of the earth would I suppose depend on such things as the size of the asteroid. What angle it was to the earth when it struck, etc.
Reply:The giant asteroid is more likely.
Reply:If the sun will wipe us out stop putting coal on!
Reply:What do you mean by wipe out?
It will not take a 10 km wide asteroid to destroy civilisation. Civilisation is a fragile thing dependent on economies. Many scientists believe that all it needs is a 500m wide asteroid to hit in the right place to so stress the world economies that civilisation goes down the tubes. That, to us in the first world, is tantamount to being wiped out.
And a 500m asteroid is not just 5% the size of a 10km one. It is 8000 times smaller volumetrically, and probably 8000 times more common in space. Therefore, though an extinction event asteroid like the dinosaur killer is reckoned to impact just every 100,000,000 years, you can probably divide that by a factor of almost 10,000 for a hit likely to bring down civilisation.
That is one every 10,000 years.
There are those scientists that believe that swarms of asteroids or cometary particles come around periodically, so that the current observed flux of likely impactors does not give a true indication of the historic incidence of catastrophic impacts.
So, insofar as the collapse of civilisation means the end of life as most of us know it, the asteroids and comets win out over the sun.
Look up Clune and Napier. Also Taurid meteors.
Reply:Ouch!
I do not know too much but this is a little I do believe is correct.
Our sun is busy burning hydrogen (1 in the periodic table), It can carry on up the periodic table till it gets to ~Fe (26 in table) every element up the table yields less energy, so I guess it will burn cooler, %26amp; probably expand. I guess once it becomes a red giant we are histoy.
Sunscreens are a questionable field. The only ones that are 100% safe are oxides- that just reflect. The absorbtion of UV by most sunscreens results in the absorbed energy being re-transmitted usually as IR eneryg to the underlaying cells may also cause some dammage. Its like the ozone layer was it was very difficult to work out the full facts with opposing sides.
Reply:Statistics are a funny thing... You can make them do almost anything you want. The answer to your question will change with time.. today we are far more likely to be wiped out by an asteroid than the sun exploding... but in 50 million years (conditional that we have not already been wiped out by an asteroid) then the chances are higher that we will suffer exploding sun syndrome.
Another way to interprete your question, would be 'which is likely to happen 1st? Death by asteroid? Or Exploding Sun? I would have to double check the exact numbers, but it is known the earth has been hit by killer asteroids multiple times in its life, maybe something like every 5 million years or so... So it seems likely that we will be hit again before the sun explodes.
Of course, if rephrasing the question to be about the extinction of the human species, or destruction altogether of the planet; it is incredibly unlikely that we will be hit by an asteroid that will destroy the planet (break it into pieces lets say). It could make a big mess like the one that is believed to have wiped out the dinosaurs.. however humans are a bit smarter than dinos, so if that type of even happened, I think there is a good chance that at least some remenants of humanity will survive.
So now we balance a good chance of being smacked with a big asteroid before the sun goes Red Giant, but a good chance that humans won't be completely wiped out, versus the certainy that the sun will expand, with the certainty that it will wipe out all life on earth... Of course if by then humans have colonized other solar systems then the human race will still nonetheless survive.... what was your question again?
Reply:Youre' right. Our Sun is expanding--but no not 50 million years . Roughly in about 5 million years ---(does it sound awfully close-well by then youd' have had progenies 10n to the power of 10x20x3..so it isnt' awfully close really- ) our Sun would have expanded a hundred odd times and wd' cover nearly 25% of The Horizon and belching fire from 1/10 of the present distance. A chicken barbecue free of cost in about 15 seconds flat , if you like it that way please so long as you are live enough to retrieve it. And by the way no amount of prayers or love for Uncle Albert's Daffodils can change the scenario. But wait a minute- a small succour-- by then Man(who would have become immensely intelligent , innovative and cunning would have long departed Earth and colonised a far off satellite of an another Sun or may be dug deep into the bowels of ou own Mother Earth and stay figuring out way to escape for escape he must or else be doomed in a gigantic cataclysm never again to inhabit this beautiful creation of That Almighty who only knows how HE shall help us or punish us or pardon us!!Bye bye My Friend All TheBest
Reply:They say the earth will be too hot to live on in about a billion years, then the sun will expand in about four billion. But an asteroid big enough to destroy most of all life on earth hits the earth on the average, about every fifty or sixty million years.
Reply:The chances of either is small compared to the certainty of the whole of the Yellowstone National Park region exploding when the mega volcano underneath it goes off as it is *BOUND* to do in the next few centuries, taking out a very big chunk of North America, thereby causing a massive global winter
Invest in buffalo farming- food and a thick coat !
Reply:The time for the sun to expand is a few billion years into the future. The probability of that happening is 1. So assuming we keep technologically advancing and will get to the point where we could divert an asteroid, I say the expanding sun would win out.
Reply:The chances of a mighty meteor hitting the Earth are remote. However the probability of Sun expanding and destroying Earth are even lesser.
Sun has existed for more than 5 billion years. The mechanism of Sun staying in equilibrium[in size] is due to two factors. The infernal and mind boggling fusion reactions in the interior of Sun result in temperatures of millions of degrees leading to expansion of gasses. Simultaneously the gravitation of Sun tries to resist this change and squeezes it back to its original shape. We can of course expect that hydrogen fuel which powers Sun[Sun is known as Helios] might get exuasted putting an end to these reactions. Even in that evntuality the Sun might turn out to be a dead star or a dwarf. We therefore see no chance of Sun expading to envelope 93 million miles which is its present distance from Earth.
Reply:we would have destroyed ourselfs long before that , but sun block shares sounds a good idea what factor were you thinking of
Reply:The sun WILL expand to eat the earth, the chances are 100%. A global killing asteroid could destroy the earth, but the fragments would still exist, to be eaten by the sun.
Reply:Well, statistically, of course the earth is more likely to be wiped out by a giant asteroid. We have a date (give or take a million years) for the sun's expansion, while the whole asteroid business is pot luck - there may be one sweeping towards us as I write, ready to hit us in about 2066 (reckon I'll be gone by then).
Incidentally, nice to see somebody making a 50 million year business plan - none of this mincing around with 3 or 5 year plans for you, I see. Well done
Reply:I RECKON AN ASTEROID!
Reply:I don't think sunblock's a good investment. We know the sun's going to wipe us out in about 5 billion years, but the frequency of impacts from meteors larger than 10 km across is believed to be once in 100 million years (give or take a bit). I'm not keen on odds of 50:1
Reply:ofcourse no , earth is the most protected planet in our solar system ,beside the far distance between earth and the sun .in my opinion i think that the earth would be wiped out by a black hole .AND GOD KNOW .
Reply:i don't think you ll be around to worry about that , do you
Reply:What are you talking about Willis?
Reply:The sun will go red giant is about 5 billion years although lots of really nasty end of the world sun stuff will happen before then, but not for at least a couple of billions years.
We get hit by a city buster about once every 100 years and a biggy every 10,000 years or so, so the impact is the most likely event. Although saying that there is a chance it will never happen whilst the sun going red giant - that's 100%.
Oh and the sun block is a good idea because the sun is getting hotter (I wont bore you with lots of stellar physics but trust me it is), also global warming will mean more people going out in the sun and hence needing sub block, that's in addition to the depletion of the ozone layer.
Reply:Should I cancel the milk?
Reply:No. all current life on earth has a higher statistical chance of being destroyed by a large asteroid than by the suns expansion. However, a large asteroid is not able to destroy the earth.
So life on earth has a statistically higher chance of being destroyed by an asteroid.
But the sun has a higher statistical change of being destroyed by the sun.
How do bulbed plants like daffodils work. they get seed pods but grow from a bulb?
With some, the seeds will produce a viable plant but takes years and is unlikely to belike the origional, very rarely better, usually worthless. It will need to grow to a good sized bulb before you see the bloom.
The bulbs usually grow and devide faster, if you do not let it go to seed.
How do bulbed plants like daffodils work. they get seed pods but grow from a bulb?
Look at it in reverse. Daffodils produce seed that grows into a bulb that produces more seed. Bulbs are simply an underground storehouse for future flowers, perennials are a ground level storehouse, while trees are an above ground storehouse. Bulbs have evolved to remain below ground,avoiding predators, frost, and hot sun; just what is needed for a Spring flowering bulb.
garden clogs
The bulbs usually grow and devide faster, if you do not let it go to seed.
How do bulbed plants like daffodils work. they get seed pods but grow from a bulb?
Look at it in reverse. Daffodils produce seed that grows into a bulb that produces more seed. Bulbs are simply an underground storehouse for future flowers, perennials are a ground level storehouse, while trees are an above ground storehouse. Bulbs have evolved to remain below ground,avoiding predators, frost, and hot sun; just what is needed for a Spring flowering bulb.
garden clogs
What is cole sprouse real email?is he available now?just meet me my 1st name "jam daffodil" last "yu".14 cole
IS COLE HAVE REAL FRIENDSTER,NOT MACHINE?WHAT IS HIS EMAIL ADD,AND FRIENDSTER.....?
What is cole sprouse real email?is he available now?just meet me my 1st name "jam daffodil" last "yu".14 cole
I doubt that he corresponds, in any way, with ignorant fans.
No "celebrity" with even half a brain is going to publish his real, personal contact information on the internet or anywhere else.
Reply:idk i wish i would have it to!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...
Reply:First off calm down.
All these posts to find celebrities personal information is useless. If anyone knew I would hope that they would not post it on the internet, they wouldn't be much of a fan would they?
Plus, I have no idea what your last sentence says in your heading.
What is cole sprouse real email?is he available now?just meet me my 1st name "jam daffodil" last "yu".14 cole
I doubt that he corresponds, in any way, with ignorant fans.
No "celebrity" with even half a brain is going to publish his real, personal contact information on the internet or anywhere else.
Reply:idk i wish i would have it to!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...
Reply:First off calm down.
All these posts to find celebrities personal information is useless. If anyone knew I would hope that they would not post it on the internet, they wouldn't be much of a fan would they?
Plus, I have no idea what your last sentence says in your heading.
Moving Daffodil Bulb?
Last fall I built myself a raised flower bed, bought high quality soil, etc. and planted 40 bulbs in it - 5 varieties, 8 bulbs per variety, planted in two clusters of 4 bulbs per variety.
Shortly after planting them the neighbors dog decided fresh dirt was fun to dig in and spread the bulbs. I put them back - and got them mostly right, but come spring and they came up - one bulb was planted in the wrong spot in a cluster with a different variety. I left it alone, it bloomed and the bloom is now finished - and I've marked it, but for aesthetic reasons I want to move it to the cluster where it belongs for next year.
When is it safest to dig it up and move it?
Moving Daffodil Bulb?
Leave it there till the leaves (foliage) dies down and then move it. If you move it now, it wont gather energy from the sun and soil and possibly wont bloom next year. If you wait till fall you might not remember where it was.
Reply:If you are gentle and the soil is moist, you can use a fork or large spade to heave the soil under the daffodils, then just reach in and gently shake that daffoldil right out of there - I have some that are mixed up too and will be doing that any minute now. I am a pretty "rough" gardener - I rarely obey the rules and I almost never have any problems. Daffoldils are very tough plants - I left two dozen on my patio for three months in the summer with a handful of leaves on them - then I finally put them in the ground and they were fine. So be gentle because they have roots on them, but move them before those leaves and that marking come off in your hand, dude (been there, done that!) so I would walk out there the next time it comes to mind, loosen the soil with the fork or shovel and tease that odd-ball out of there - try to get it right into the new location and push the "disturbed" daffs back down - water both areas well and never worry about it again. I have moved whole shovel-fulls of them in full bloom and only had them sulk for a day before straightening up and finishing normally. They grow in really harsh climates where they originated - so they are very forgiving. Maybe the greens will fade faster than usual - you can add some potash to the holes if you want to be careful - but careful has never done much for my schedule or my garden. ;)
Shortly after planting them the neighbors dog decided fresh dirt was fun to dig in and spread the bulbs. I put them back - and got them mostly right, but come spring and they came up - one bulb was planted in the wrong spot in a cluster with a different variety. I left it alone, it bloomed and the bloom is now finished - and I've marked it, but for aesthetic reasons I want to move it to the cluster where it belongs for next year.
When is it safest to dig it up and move it?
Moving Daffodil Bulb?
Leave it there till the leaves (foliage) dies down and then move it. If you move it now, it wont gather energy from the sun and soil and possibly wont bloom next year. If you wait till fall you might not remember where it was.
Reply:If you are gentle and the soil is moist, you can use a fork or large spade to heave the soil under the daffodils, then just reach in and gently shake that daffoldil right out of there - I have some that are mixed up too and will be doing that any minute now. I am a pretty "rough" gardener - I rarely obey the rules and I almost never have any problems. Daffoldils are very tough plants - I left two dozen on my patio for three months in the summer with a handful of leaves on them - then I finally put them in the ground and they were fine. So be gentle because they have roots on them, but move them before those leaves and that marking come off in your hand, dude (been there, done that!) so I would walk out there the next time it comes to mind, loosen the soil with the fork or shovel and tease that odd-ball out of there - try to get it right into the new location and push the "disturbed" daffs back down - water both areas well and never worry about it again. I have moved whole shovel-fulls of them in full bloom and only had them sulk for a day before straightening up and finishing normally. They grow in really harsh climates where they originated - so they are very forgiving. Maybe the greens will fade faster than usual - you can add some potash to the holes if you want to be careful - but careful has never done much for my schedule or my garden. ;)
Where can i get annotation for the poem: To Daffodils?
This poem was written by Robert Herrick.
I was mainly looking for commentry on the language, content and structre of the poem. Stuff like Rhythm and rhyme of the poem.
Its in the Pre-1770 section based on the 'Edexcel Poetry Anthology book'
I was mainly looking for commentry on the language, content and structre of the poem. Stuff like Rhythm and rhyme of the poem.
Its in the Pre-1770 section based on the 'Edexcel Poetry Anthology book'
Why do daffodils do this?
As time passes on by the plant can't seem to support itself anymore and the leaves fall down along with the stem that has the flower why is this??
It this normal for this time of year too?? Its like spring here in california.
O and if you could also tell me what i should do about it that would be helpful.
Thanks for the help
Why do daffodils do this?
I've always been told that warmer temperatures will cause daffodil stems to become weaker and they will fall over...as you've stated.
You can prevent them from falling over by suspending a 4 by 4-inch wire mesh netting about 10 inches above your daffodils next year. As they emerge, you can redirect the foilage and blooms into the netting so they won't topple over.
Hope this solves your problem. Good luck!
Reply:This seems to be a normal characteristic of the plant. However, I would check and make sure they are getting enough water. A lack of moisture could cause the wilting.
Reply:because thats the life of the flower...it blooms a good week and then starts to die..
Visual C++ opengl code request
It this normal for this time of year too?? Its like spring here in california.
O and if you could also tell me what i should do about it that would be helpful.
Thanks for the help
Why do daffodils do this?
I've always been told that warmer temperatures will cause daffodil stems to become weaker and they will fall over...as you've stated.
You can prevent them from falling over by suspending a 4 by 4-inch wire mesh netting about 10 inches above your daffodils next year. As they emerge, you can redirect the foilage and blooms into the netting so they won't topple over.
Hope this solves your problem. Good luck!
Reply:This seems to be a normal characteristic of the plant. However, I would check and make sure they are getting enough water. A lack of moisture could cause the wilting.
Reply:because thats the life of the flower...it blooms a good week and then starts to die..
Visual C++ opengl code request
Did I kill my mum with the weed protector?
I am a new homeowner and know nothing about gardening. I moved into the home in the winter time so the garden was pretty bare. There was a huge mum though that I loved. Once it died I cut it down as I was told. Come spring time, some daffodils appeared. I had a landscaper come to put down mulch and a weed protector. I told him to put the weed protector around the daffodils and to leave the area where the mum was alone. As for the rest, I'd try to plant some flowers myself. Stupid mistake, I should have waited a full year to see what would grow in the garden. Any way, it is now June and a plant has grown where I thought the mum was supposed to be. I checked the area next to the new plant today and it is covered with the weed protector. I think this is where the mum may actually be. If I cut the weed protector away, will the mum still grow or have I killed it already? I know mums bloom in the fall but I don't know if it should have already started to grow.
Did I kill my mum with the weed protector?
Depending on where you live... it should have started to grow already... Are you sure that the plant that is "where the mum used to be" isn't the mum? If your not that familiar with bedding plants maybe you should look up a picture of what a mum plant looks like and really study the foliage shape and structure and compare it to your "new plant" (since it's not in flower). If that's not it you can move the mulch and cut a small hole in the weed blocker where you think the mum plant is and it may be struggling to survive...
Reply:It should have started to grow already. Time to get a new mum.
Did I kill my mum with the weed protector?
Depending on where you live... it should have started to grow already... Are you sure that the plant that is "where the mum used to be" isn't the mum? If your not that familiar with bedding plants maybe you should look up a picture of what a mum plant looks like and really study the foliage shape and structure and compare it to your "new plant" (since it's not in flower). If that's not it you can move the mulch and cut a small hole in the weed blocker where you think the mum plant is and it may be struggling to survive...
Reply:It should have started to grow already. Time to get a new mum.
I forgot to plant some daffodils bulbs last fall can I plant them this fall?
Do they last a while or are they only good for one year?
I forgot to plant some daffodils bulbs last fall can I plant them this fall?
Do the bulbs last more than one year do you mean? I cannot find specific information about how long the bulbs are viable if not immediately planted, but why not just give it a try anyway. I have to say I would THINK they WOULD grow since they are, in essence, in hibernation right now.
About Daffodils:
http://daffodilusa.org/daffodils/faq.htm...
Reply:No; plant them this Fall. They are perennials, meaning they'll return year after year. Aren't they beautiful? They'll continue to bloom %26amp; spread yearly. If they start slowing down with the blooms after several years, they may need thinning out.
Reply:as long as they were kept dry over the year.. most of them should blossom after being planted... but there could always be that one dud...
Reply:Plant them NOW, if you wish! Yes, they last. It won't hurt to plant them now, they may simply leaf out and not bloom this year, but those leaves will be gathering strength and food for the bulb to bloom better next year. I put in tulips in January of this year, and although they were small, they DID bloom already! So be encouraged, and
Happy Gardening!
Reply:Daffodils are annual, which of course means they come back every year.
I forgot to plant some daffodils bulbs last fall can I plant them this fall?
Do the bulbs last more than one year do you mean? I cannot find specific information about how long the bulbs are viable if not immediately planted, but why not just give it a try anyway. I have to say I would THINK they WOULD grow since they are, in essence, in hibernation right now.
About Daffodils:
http://daffodilusa.org/daffodils/faq.htm...
Reply:No; plant them this Fall. They are perennials, meaning they'll return year after year. Aren't they beautiful? They'll continue to bloom %26amp; spread yearly. If they start slowing down with the blooms after several years, they may need thinning out.
Reply:as long as they were kept dry over the year.. most of them should blossom after being planted... but there could always be that one dud...
Reply:Plant them NOW, if you wish! Yes, they last. It won't hurt to plant them now, they may simply leaf out and not bloom this year, but those leaves will be gathering strength and food for the bulb to bloom better next year. I put in tulips in January of this year, and although they were small, they DID bloom already! So be encouraged, and
Happy Gardening!
Reply:Daffodils are annual, which of course means they come back every year.
What is that bright yellow orb in the sky?
*****
The sun popped up
the daffodils and looped the loopy Lupines.
So I went to the grocery,
redeemed all of my coupons.
I got myself some sweet sauces,
and crackers to put goop on.
A baguette bread — two feet long,
catsup and then Gray Poupon.
Some sausages and Port Wine Cheese
salad with crispy croutons.
A meal I will serve to you
upon your fluffy fouton…
*****
What is that bright yellow orb in the sky?
Cute. Shall we rap now?
Reply:Very funny and jollly. Well worked-out too. Very like the late great lady Pam Ayres; that means commercial.
More like that and you are away! This is one of hers.
Yes, I'll Marry You
Yes, I'll marry you, my dear,
And here's the reason why;
So I can push you out of bed
When the baby starts to cry,
And if we hear a knocking
And it's creepy and it's late,
I hand you the torch you see,
And you investigate.
Yes I'll marry you, my dear,
You may not apprehend it,
But when the tumble-drier goes
It's you that has to mend it,
You have to face the neighbour
Should our labrador attack him,
And if a drunkard fondles me
It's you that has to whack him.
Yes, I'll marry you,
You're virile and you're lean,
My house is like a pigsty
You can help to keep it clean.
That sexy little dinner
Which you served by candlelight,
As I do chipolatas,
You can cook it every night!
It's you who has to work the drill
and put up curtain track,
And when I've got PMT it's you who gets the flak,
I do see great advantages,
But none of them for you,
And so before you see the light,
I do, I do, I do!
By Pam Ayres
--------------------------------------...
Reply:And remember, the dangling grapes.
Reply:Mmmmm! I am going to have something to eat now and wander lonely as a daffodil. Good bye!
Reply:?? 5 out of 6
Reply:you must be hungry. maybe head into the kitchen and cook something.....
silly little ditty.....
Reply:Cute! %26lt; 3
Reply:YAY!!! It stopped raining!
Good thing I've had lunch or I'd be mad at you right now!
The sun popped up
the daffodils and looped the loopy Lupines.
So I went to the grocery,
redeemed all of my coupons.
I got myself some sweet sauces,
and crackers to put goop on.
A baguette bread — two feet long,
catsup and then Gray Poupon.
Some sausages and Port Wine Cheese
salad with crispy croutons.
A meal I will serve to you
upon your fluffy fouton…
*****
What is that bright yellow orb in the sky?
Cute. Shall we rap now?
Reply:Very funny and jollly. Well worked-out too. Very like the late great lady Pam Ayres; that means commercial.
More like that and you are away! This is one of hers.
Yes, I'll Marry You
Yes, I'll marry you, my dear,
And here's the reason why;
So I can push you out of bed
When the baby starts to cry,
And if we hear a knocking
And it's creepy and it's late,
I hand you the torch you see,
And you investigate.
Yes I'll marry you, my dear,
You may not apprehend it,
But when the tumble-drier goes
It's you that has to mend it,
You have to face the neighbour
Should our labrador attack him,
And if a drunkard fondles me
It's you that has to whack him.
Yes, I'll marry you,
You're virile and you're lean,
My house is like a pigsty
You can help to keep it clean.
That sexy little dinner
Which you served by candlelight,
As I do chipolatas,
You can cook it every night!
It's you who has to work the drill
and put up curtain track,
And when I've got PMT it's you who gets the flak,
I do see great advantages,
But none of them for you,
And so before you see the light,
I do, I do, I do!
By Pam Ayres
--------------------------------------...
Reply:And remember, the dangling grapes.
Reply:Mmmmm! I am going to have something to eat now and wander lonely as a daffodil. Good bye!
Reply:?? 5 out of 6
Reply:you must be hungry. maybe head into the kitchen and cook something.....
silly little ditty.....
Reply:Cute! %26lt; 3
Reply:YAY!!! It stopped raining!
Good thing I've had lunch or I'd be mad at you right now!
I am looking for bulbs or plants called Samantha.?
Further to my previous question looking for a plant called Samantha in remembrance of my best friend's daughter killed last week in a white water rafting accident in Thailand, I'm not having much luck, so am wondering whether there are any bulbs called "Samantha". It doesn't matter what kind they are as in daffodils, tulips etc., as long as they are called Samantha. UK only thanks.
I am looking for bulbs or plants called Samantha.?
There is a Flower called Campanula Samantha
"A long flowering Campanula, large open cups of violet, fragrant flowers. If allowed to, this will creep over walls etc. A lovely new addition.
Flowering March right through to September. 20 x 40 cms."
is around £4 depending where you go
Reply:go to www.backyardgardener.com/plantname click on what comes up, there's only 1 item and then go down to common name listing of plants and click on s I've seen a couple with the name Samantha.
after /plant put the word name. they took it out of the address
sandals
I am looking for bulbs or plants called Samantha.?
There is a Flower called Campanula Samantha
"A long flowering Campanula, large open cups of violet, fragrant flowers. If allowed to, this will creep over walls etc. A lovely new addition.
Flowering March right through to September. 20 x 40 cms."
is around £4 depending where you go
Reply:go to www.backyardgardener.com/plantname click on what comes up, there's only 1 item and then go down to common name listing of plants and click on s I've seen a couple with the name Samantha.
after /plant put the word name. they took it out of the address
sandals
Which spring bulbs will grow up through a lawn?
I am seeding a new lawn and would like to have some spring bulbs growing through it. I know that daffodils will push up through the lawn, do any others?
(i was hoping to use dwarf tulips, snakeshead frit and bluebells)
Which spring bulbs will grow up through a lawn?
all the other answers so far are pretty good, the only advice that i have is only use early spring blooming bulbs, and not the daffs (too much foliage), remember where they are there when it comes to lawn treatment fert is ok but avoid the weed control.
Reply:All are fine as long as you remember where you put them so that you don't mow the top off new growth
be careful with bluebells though they reproduce very quickly and will take over your lawn,oxalis(clover) do the same and too many will poison the soil for other plants even in open beds.
Reply:ask at the garden centre
Reply:Daffidills, blubells, snow drops.
Reply:Any bulbs will come up and bloom, but I would ask your local garden center which ones would be the best to plant.
Reply:crocus, daffodils, snow drops.
Best way to do it is partly cut out a square of lawn with a spade, fold back the turf you have just cut then put the bulbs in the soil randomly (if not sure which way they go then jus put them on their sides). idealy you want them to grow through as clumps of flowers rather than single flowers dotted about as that looks strange (thats waht happended to my flowers - i have learnt my lesson!)
Reply:Blue bearded irises are nice.The dark blue color goes beautifully with everything in my backyard.Also, canna lillies(asst. colors),Spider lillies,Standard tulips.(The small ones cannot break through tough grass roots).Large elephant ears if you want interestig greenery.(These are best placed in corners or flanking a patio at the wall of the dwelling).Hope this helps you.
Reply:I know for a fact that crocus's bloom early spring and are very pretty , I like then cuz they always seem to come up even though there is still snow on the ground, the color against the white is SO pretty!!
Reply:The Fritillaria and bluebells should be fine- though, you won't be able to mow the lawn until about 6 weeks after they've finished flowering. Grape hyacinth (Muscari) would also work, and the most common species self-seed and multiply vigorously.
If you use tulips, make sure they're perennial-types, and not something you have to dig each winter.
I'm thinking of doing something similar, but using varieties of crocus for an early-spring show where I don't have to worry about mowing yet...
There is a bulb planter here: http://www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com/sprin...
that looks like the fastest tool I've seen for planting large quantities of bulbs, without pulling big plugs out of your new lawn.
Reply:You really only want early flowering bulbs so they are not in competition with the grass when the grass starts to grow quickly again and they don't make it too awkward to mow the grass.
Add crocuses to your list
Reply:All those you mentioned will peek up through a lawn. You might also want to try crocus for a lovely effect. Other spring bulbs to consider are snowdrops (I think they may grow through grass) and perhaps lily of the valley for a beautiful scent. Happy gardening!
Reply:All bulbs will. You really want to look out for those that flower before the grass starts to grow properly though, otherwise you'll end up mowing them off. Tulips are good, or crocuses.
Reply:I do think that almost all bulbs will
Reply:More or less all of them will, but remember you can't cut them back for ages after they have flowered, or else they don't flower the year after. This means you might find it hard to keep your lawn tidy. Bulbs are best in borders and pots.
Reply:tulips are the best for that, and they come in all colors and they are beautiful in the spring
Reply:Have a stunning mix of yellow and purple crocus peeping up.
Try planting 'carpet of snow' too, but in seed form.
Also, if you go into any garden centre, look around and choose the plants you like FIRST, then find out afterwards if they will give you the desired effect.
Reply:Daisies and Poppies.They both will grow trough a medium lawn.
Reply:All bulbs will.
Reply:All spring bulbs will grow through the lawn, problem is the they need to be left to die back naturally in early summer, and this is the time your grass will also need cutting, so if you cut the lawn before the bulbs have stored up energy for the following spring you will get less flowers, and gradually over a very short number of years you will have none left at all.
Reply:all those mentioned will do the job try to avoid bluebells though they are very prolific and will drown out the others
personally I would plant snowdrops, crocus, daffodil, and the snakesheads
and leave any others out as you will want to cut the grass by that time plant in areas so as to enable you to cut and use the lawn in the areas that are Past flowering
(i was hoping to use dwarf tulips, snakeshead frit and bluebells)
Which spring bulbs will grow up through a lawn?
all the other answers so far are pretty good, the only advice that i have is only use early spring blooming bulbs, and not the daffs (too much foliage), remember where they are there when it comes to lawn treatment fert is ok but avoid the weed control.
Reply:All are fine as long as you remember where you put them so that you don't mow the top off new growth
be careful with bluebells though they reproduce very quickly and will take over your lawn,oxalis(clover) do the same and too many will poison the soil for other plants even in open beds.
Reply:ask at the garden centre
Reply:Daffidills, blubells, snow drops.
Reply:Any bulbs will come up and bloom, but I would ask your local garden center which ones would be the best to plant.
Reply:crocus, daffodils, snow drops.
Best way to do it is partly cut out a square of lawn with a spade, fold back the turf you have just cut then put the bulbs in the soil randomly (if not sure which way they go then jus put them on their sides). idealy you want them to grow through as clumps of flowers rather than single flowers dotted about as that looks strange (thats waht happended to my flowers - i have learnt my lesson!)
Reply:Blue bearded irises are nice.The dark blue color goes beautifully with everything in my backyard.Also, canna lillies(asst. colors),Spider lillies,Standard tulips.(The small ones cannot break through tough grass roots).Large elephant ears if you want interestig greenery.(These are best placed in corners or flanking a patio at the wall of the dwelling).Hope this helps you.
Reply:I know for a fact that crocus's bloom early spring and are very pretty , I like then cuz they always seem to come up even though there is still snow on the ground, the color against the white is SO pretty!!
Reply:The Fritillaria and bluebells should be fine- though, you won't be able to mow the lawn until about 6 weeks after they've finished flowering. Grape hyacinth (Muscari) would also work, and the most common species self-seed and multiply vigorously.
If you use tulips, make sure they're perennial-types, and not something you have to dig each winter.
I'm thinking of doing something similar, but using varieties of crocus for an early-spring show where I don't have to worry about mowing yet...
There is a bulb planter here: http://www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com/sprin...
that looks like the fastest tool I've seen for planting large quantities of bulbs, without pulling big plugs out of your new lawn.
Reply:You really only want early flowering bulbs so they are not in competition with the grass when the grass starts to grow quickly again and they don't make it too awkward to mow the grass.
Add crocuses to your list
Reply:All those you mentioned will peek up through a lawn. You might also want to try crocus for a lovely effect. Other spring bulbs to consider are snowdrops (I think they may grow through grass) and perhaps lily of the valley for a beautiful scent. Happy gardening!
Reply:All bulbs will. You really want to look out for those that flower before the grass starts to grow properly though, otherwise you'll end up mowing them off. Tulips are good, or crocuses.
Reply:I do think that almost all bulbs will
Reply:More or less all of them will, but remember you can't cut them back for ages after they have flowered, or else they don't flower the year after. This means you might find it hard to keep your lawn tidy. Bulbs are best in borders and pots.
Reply:tulips are the best for that, and they come in all colors and they are beautiful in the spring
Reply:Have a stunning mix of yellow and purple crocus peeping up.
Try planting 'carpet of snow' too, but in seed form.
Also, if you go into any garden centre, look around and choose the plants you like FIRST, then find out afterwards if they will give you the desired effect.
Reply:Daisies and Poppies.They both will grow trough a medium lawn.
Reply:All bulbs will.
Reply:All spring bulbs will grow through the lawn, problem is the they need to be left to die back naturally in early summer, and this is the time your grass will also need cutting, so if you cut the lawn before the bulbs have stored up energy for the following spring you will get less flowers, and gradually over a very short number of years you will have none left at all.
Reply:all those mentioned will do the job try to avoid bluebells though they are very prolific and will drown out the others
personally I would plant snowdrops, crocus, daffodil, and the snakesheads
and leave any others out as you will want to cut the grass by that time plant in areas so as to enable you to cut and use the lawn in the areas that are Past flowering
Any Welsh folk on here today.? Did you wear you,r Daffodil for St David,s Day?
Or did you have a leek..
Any Welsh folk on here today.? Did you wear you,r Daffodil for St David,s Day?
Daffodil- Welsh %26amp; Proud! Also watchin Gavin %26amp; Stacey on BBC2
Reply:Pleased to hear of St David.
I thought Wales was godless and into new age occult rubbish. Pleased to hear St David get a mention!!Christianity is the only religion of consequence
Read 'The Case for Christ' by Strobel
Read 'Mere christianity' by CS Lewis
Read 'The New Testament Documents-Are they reliable'
Read'The New Testament--Is it History?'
Read 'Who moved the Stone?'
There are many more books on the strength of the evidence for Christ.Try Alpa or Christianity Explored.
Reply:that is so strange, I had no clue it was celebrated today, saw nothing about it, but I had a thought yesterday about picking a dafodil for mothers day, Do you believe in psycic connections. I think I am, but won't admit it.
Reply:yeah half welsh and no i didnt. i should be ashamed of myself.
Any Welsh folk on here today.? Did you wear you,r Daffodil for St David,s Day?
Daffodil- Welsh %26amp; Proud! Also watchin Gavin %26amp; Stacey on BBC2
Reply:Pleased to hear of St David.
I thought Wales was godless and into new age occult rubbish. Pleased to hear St David get a mention!!Christianity is the only religion of consequence
Read 'The Case for Christ' by Strobel
Read 'Mere christianity' by CS Lewis
Read 'The New Testament Documents-Are they reliable'
Read'The New Testament--Is it History?'
Read 'Who moved the Stone?'
There are many more books on the strength of the evidence for Christ.Try Alpa or Christianity Explored.
Reply:that is so strange, I had no clue it was celebrated today, saw nothing about it, but I had a thought yesterday about picking a dafodil for mothers day, Do you believe in psycic connections. I think I am, but won't admit it.
Reply:yeah half welsh and no i didnt. i should be ashamed of myself.
I see only shoots of my daffodils and tulips?
I see only shoots of my daffodils and tulips I planted then in nov 2006.Iam from Southern California.The shoots are nice and healthy when will they flower?.
I see only shoots of my daffodils and tulips?
Yes,it is still early.
Reply:DID YOU TRY THESE
Reply:This Spring. They don't sprout in the other seasons.
Reply:In the next month. Maybe in a few weeks. They're right on schedule for an early spring. Even if it's warm where you are, flowers still need to go through the motions of a long cycle :)
I see only shoots of my daffodils and tulips?
Yes,it is still early.
Reply:DID YOU TRY THESE
Reply:This Spring. They don't sprout in the other seasons.
Reply:In the next month. Maybe in a few weeks. They're right on schedule for an early spring. Even if it's warm where you are, flowers still need to go through the motions of a long cycle :)
Best way to grow daffodils?
i have two large bulbs of daffodils in a ceramic daffodil tray with water and rocks. they've been growing well, they're about 1 1/2 ft tall almost, but for some reason they're drying up. what i want to know is:
amount of water (how much should cover the bulbs/roots)
amount of sunlight if any
any trimming needed?
please keep it simple i'm not going to invest in fertilizer or anything fancy. just some basic suggestions THANKS
Best way to grow daffodils?
What you're doing is called "Bulb Forcing".
Water should NOT cover the bulbs. That will cause them to rot. The best method for forcing bulbs is to cover only the roots with water and leave the bulbs themselves to be dry. They should get as much full sun as you can give them, and don't trim them at all. At this point, you don't want to provide any fertilizer. the bulbs are living off the stored energy in the bulb.
After blooming, you can plant the bulbs in your garden and they will come back year after year. Do not remove the greenery from them when planting either...the greenery helps the bulbs gather light to concentrate more stored energy in the bulb for next year. Also, the bulbs prefer dry soil during the summer, so don't water that spot during the summer and they'll do best.
Other bulbs that do well being "forced" are hyacinths and crocuses.
Reply:no trimming necessary, but it's it about time to go in the ground with soil?
Reply:Well You don't say if the Daffodils are in bloom but since they are in a tray it sounds like they were bought in bloom. If that is the case, they are just done for the season, they have a very short bloom period. If you want them to come back next year, put them in the ground, pinch off the blooms and let the greens just continue thru the summer, when you pinch off the bloom, leave the stem as it helps nourish the bulb and assure a good bloom next year...
If the plant is not in bloom yet, they are a full sun plant, so put them in full sun, keep them wet but not nesessarily floating since there natural habitat is dirt not rocks and water, you may also have them in a spot in the house that is too hot with no humidity, they are a spring flower so cool and rainy season is there natural state...
choose hiking boots
amount of water (how much should cover the bulbs/roots)
amount of sunlight if any
any trimming needed?
please keep it simple i'm not going to invest in fertilizer or anything fancy. just some basic suggestions THANKS
Best way to grow daffodils?
What you're doing is called "Bulb Forcing".
Water should NOT cover the bulbs. That will cause them to rot. The best method for forcing bulbs is to cover only the roots with water and leave the bulbs themselves to be dry. They should get as much full sun as you can give them, and don't trim them at all. At this point, you don't want to provide any fertilizer. the bulbs are living off the stored energy in the bulb.
After blooming, you can plant the bulbs in your garden and they will come back year after year. Do not remove the greenery from them when planting either...the greenery helps the bulbs gather light to concentrate more stored energy in the bulb for next year. Also, the bulbs prefer dry soil during the summer, so don't water that spot during the summer and they'll do best.
Other bulbs that do well being "forced" are hyacinths and crocuses.
Reply:no trimming necessary, but it's it about time to go in the ground with soil?
Reply:Well You don't say if the Daffodils are in bloom but since they are in a tray it sounds like they were bought in bloom. If that is the case, they are just done for the season, they have a very short bloom period. If you want them to come back next year, put them in the ground, pinch off the blooms and let the greens just continue thru the summer, when you pinch off the bloom, leave the stem as it helps nourish the bulb and assure a good bloom next year...
If the plant is not in bloom yet, they are a full sun plant, so put them in full sun, keep them wet but not nesessarily floating since there natural habitat is dirt not rocks and water, you may also have them in a spot in the house that is too hot with no humidity, they are a spring flower so cool and rainy season is there natural state...
choose hiking boots
How do you make daffodils from sugare paste?
i enjoy making sugar flowers for cake decoration and would like to try daffodils for a cake but dont want to go to the expense of buying a book or DVD
How do you make daffodils from sugare paste?
Here is a recipe. Then you can shape the gumpaste into anything you want to. Or you can buy the premade stuff by Wilson
1 heaping tablespoon Glucose or corn syrup
3 tablespoons (1/4 cup) warm water
1 tablespoon Gum Tragacanth, also known as Gum-Tex
1 lb. sifted confectioners’ sugar (or more)
Heat glucose and water till just warm. Mix Gum-Tex with 1 cup of the sugar and add to glucose mixture. Mix well. Gradually knead in enough sugar until you have used about 3/4 pound.
Gum paste handles best when aged, so store in a plastic bag at least overnight, then break off a piece and work in more sugar until pliable but not sticky. Always keep well-covered. Follow directions for tinting and rolling out gum paste.
NOTE: Decorators with hot hands will prefer making a firmer paste using the 1/4 cup of water. Even less water can be used if a firmer paste is desired. For ivory colored gumpaste all or part dark corn syrup may be substituted for the light corn syrup.
Tylose Gumpaste - Best for hot weather.
Tylose is an alternative product to use in making gumpaste instead of gum tragacanth. The advantage of the tylose is that the paste is less expensive,, easier to make, holds up better in humidity and is whiter in color. The 55g container makes approximately 3 pounds of finished gumpaste.
The following recipe will make approximately 2 pounds of gumpaste.
4 - Large Egg Whites
1 - 2 lb. bag 10x powdered sugar
12 - Level teaspoons Tylose (Available in our online store)
4 - Teaspoons shortening (Crisco)
1. Place the egg whites in a Kitchen Aid mixer bowl fitted with the flat paddle.
2. Turn the mixer on high speed for 10 seconds to break up the egg whites.
3. Reserve 1 cup of the powdered sugar and set aside.
4. Turn the mixer to the lowest speed and slowly add the remaining sugar. This will make a soft consistency royal icing.
5. Turn up the speed to setting 3 or 4 for about 2 minutes. During this time measure off the tylose into a small container.
6. Make sure the mixture is at the soft peak stage. It should look shiny, like meringue and the peaks fall over. (If coloring the entire batch, add the paste color at this stage, making it a shade darker than the desired color.)
7. Turn the mixer to the slow setting and sprinkle the tylose in over a five second time period. Next, turn the speed up to the high setting for a few seconds. (This will thicken the mixture.
8. Scrape the mixture out of the bowl onto a work surface that has been sprinkled with some of the reserved 1 cup of
powdered sugar. Place the shortening on your hands and knead the paste, adding enough of the reserved powdered sugar to form a soft but not sticky dough. You can check by pinching with your fingers and they should come away clean. Place the finished paste in a zip-top bag, then place the bagged paste in a second bag and seal well.
9. Place in the refrigerator for 24 hours if possible before using to mature the paste.
10. Before use, remove from refrigerator and allow the paste to come to room temperature. Take a small amount of shortening on the end of your finger and knead this into the paste. If you are coloring the paste, add the paste color at this stage.
11. Always store the paste in the zip-top bags and return to the refrigerator when you are not using the paste. Will keep under refrigeration for approximately 6 months. You can keep the paste longer by freezing. Be sure to use zip-top freezer bags. If you will be freezing a batch of paste, allow it to mature for 24 hours in the refrigerator first before placing into the freezer.
I hope this helps
How do you make daffodils from sugare paste?
Here is a recipe. Then you can shape the gumpaste into anything you want to. Or you can buy the premade stuff by Wilson
1 heaping tablespoon Glucose or corn syrup
3 tablespoons (1/4 cup) warm water
1 tablespoon Gum Tragacanth, also known as Gum-Tex
1 lb. sifted confectioners’ sugar (or more)
Heat glucose and water till just warm. Mix Gum-Tex with 1 cup of the sugar and add to glucose mixture. Mix well. Gradually knead in enough sugar until you have used about 3/4 pound.
Gum paste handles best when aged, so store in a plastic bag at least overnight, then break off a piece and work in more sugar until pliable but not sticky. Always keep well-covered. Follow directions for tinting and rolling out gum paste.
NOTE: Decorators with hot hands will prefer making a firmer paste using the 1/4 cup of water. Even less water can be used if a firmer paste is desired. For ivory colored gumpaste all or part dark corn syrup may be substituted for the light corn syrup.
Tylose Gumpaste - Best for hot weather.
Tylose is an alternative product to use in making gumpaste instead of gum tragacanth. The advantage of the tylose is that the paste is less expensive,, easier to make, holds up better in humidity and is whiter in color. The 55g container makes approximately 3 pounds of finished gumpaste.
The following recipe will make approximately 2 pounds of gumpaste.
4 - Large Egg Whites
1 - 2 lb. bag 10x powdered sugar
12 - Level teaspoons Tylose (Available in our online store)
4 - Teaspoons shortening (Crisco)
1. Place the egg whites in a Kitchen Aid mixer bowl fitted with the flat paddle.
2. Turn the mixer on high speed for 10 seconds to break up the egg whites.
3. Reserve 1 cup of the powdered sugar and set aside.
4. Turn the mixer to the lowest speed and slowly add the remaining sugar. This will make a soft consistency royal icing.
5. Turn up the speed to setting 3 or 4 for about 2 minutes. During this time measure off the tylose into a small container.
6. Make sure the mixture is at the soft peak stage. It should look shiny, like meringue and the peaks fall over. (If coloring the entire batch, add the paste color at this stage, making it a shade darker than the desired color.)
7. Turn the mixer to the slow setting and sprinkle the tylose in over a five second time period. Next, turn the speed up to the high setting for a few seconds. (This will thicken the mixture.
8. Scrape the mixture out of the bowl onto a work surface that has been sprinkled with some of the reserved 1 cup of
powdered sugar. Place the shortening on your hands and knead the paste, adding enough of the reserved powdered sugar to form a soft but not sticky dough. You can check by pinching with your fingers and they should come away clean. Place the finished paste in a zip-top bag, then place the bagged paste in a second bag and seal well.
9. Place in the refrigerator for 24 hours if possible before using to mature the paste.
10. Before use, remove from refrigerator and allow the paste to come to room temperature. Take a small amount of shortening on the end of your finger and knead this into the paste. If you are coloring the paste, add the paste color at this stage.
11. Always store the paste in the zip-top bags and return to the refrigerator when you are not using the paste. Will keep under refrigeration for approximately 6 months. You can keep the paste longer by freezing. Be sure to use zip-top freezer bags. If you will be freezing a batch of paste, allow it to mature for 24 hours in the refrigerator first before placing into the freezer.
I hope this helps
Can anyone help me compare and contrast?
I need help comparing and contrasting the poem Daffodils by William Wordsworth and To Daffodils by Robert Herrick. I read these poems and they just seem so much alike. I know compare and contrast is so easy but these just seem difficult because they talk about the same thing and I have never compared and contrasted poems befor.
Can anyone help me compare and contrast?
Try Here:
http://www.literatureclassics.com/essays...
Reply:Here is an outline of a paper describing how you could treat it.
http://www.newi.ac.uk/englishresources/w...
Here is the start of an essay that might help
On the left is an image preview of every page of this document, and below are the first 150 words with formatting removed:
GCSE Coursework - Poetry Comparing "The Daffodils" by William Wordsworth and "To Daffodils" by Robert Herrick When looking at the two poems "Daffodils" by William Wordsworth and "To Daffodils" by Robert Herrick although the two poems are based on the same thing, they are very different. When first looking at Wordsworth's poem immediately you can see the simplicity and almost childless rhyming to it. The language is very simple and basically talks about how the writer is sad and lonely. It then goes on to talk about how lovely and pleasant the daffodils are. You can see how the poem has very little dept to it, but when looking at "To daffodils" by Herrick you can see that this has far more depth to it and has a more mature style of writing. Instead of just describing the physical characteristics of the daffodils it goes further and talks about the life...
Can anyone help me compare and contrast?
Try Here:
http://www.literatureclassics.com/essays...
Reply:Here is an outline of a paper describing how you could treat it.
http://www.newi.ac.uk/englishresources/w...
Here is the start of an essay that might help
On the left is an image preview of every page of this document, and below are the first 150 words with formatting removed:
GCSE Coursework - Poetry Comparing "The Daffodils" by William Wordsworth and "To Daffodils" by Robert Herrick When looking at the two poems "Daffodils" by William Wordsworth and "To Daffodils" by Robert Herrick although the two poems are based on the same thing, they are very different. When first looking at Wordsworth's poem immediately you can see the simplicity and almost childless rhyming to it. The language is very simple and basically talks about how the writer is sad and lonely. It then goes on to talk about how lovely and pleasant the daffodils are. You can see how the poem has very little dept to it, but when looking at "To daffodils" by Herrick you can see that this has far more depth to it and has a more mature style of writing. Instead of just describing the physical characteristics of the daffodils it goes further and talks about the life...
The Royal Daffodil.?
What happened to this paddle steamer, which gave a lot of
pleasure to Londoners, on a day out to Southend in the 50's?
The Royal Daffodil.?
Probably converted into a navy warship.......Seriously though: I used to travel on it (also Royal Sovereign, and Queen of the Channel, with my father. Happy days!
Reply:not dead sure if same ship we have one in liverpool it used to have dancing on it of a night
pleasure to Londoners, on a day out to Southend in the 50's?
The Royal Daffodil.?
Probably converted into a navy warship.......Seriously though: I used to travel on it (also Royal Sovereign, and Queen of the Channel, with my father. Happy days!
Reply:not dead sure if same ship we have one in liverpool it used to have dancing on it of a night
Looking for author of a poem about a family named the daffodils and a circus?
It started out like this: There was Ma and Pa Daffodil, Big Fat Jenny, Ole' Aunt Lizzy and Baby Izzy. The circus was coming to town...........and ended "was a red letter day for the daffodils". My mother used to tell us this story as children. Her sister recited this story as a small child. Both my mother and aunt are now deceased and our family would like to be able to pass this along.
Looking for author of a poem about a family named the daffodils and a circus?
I think its jin n juice by snoop dogg
phone
Looking for author of a poem about a family named the daffodils and a circus?
I think its jin n juice by snoop dogg
phone
What can I plant in my garden now that will grow by spring ? I know daffodils, what else?
I find the BBC garden web page http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/ is excellent for loads of tips and advice and can help with what to plant when. To be honest with the weather as it is at the moment you can pretty much plant anything, it is warm and damp which is perfect growing conditions for so many plants. Any bulbs which are in the shops now will come up next spring, daffodils will be up early so follow those up with tulips and maybe so alliums which look like big purple balls on a long stem, they come in many sizes and look stunning (member of the onion family as a side note). You can also get some early flowering clematis such as C.macropetala 'Markham's Pink' although this will not be very big by spring if you need large areas covered.
Grab some lavender form B%26amp;Q which sell cheap packs of 8 for about £5 and this cn fill a space although will not be flowering in spring. Alot of grasses will continue to grow over winter abeit slowly, just check you are choosing ones which do not die back to the roots.
What can I plant in my garden now that will grow by spring ? I know daffodils, what else?
loads of tulips, snowdrops, grape hyacinths, irises. We just got 500 from our garden centre %26amp; were told that stocks will be low this autumn because of the drought.
Reply:bulbs, bulbs and mors bulbs - tulips and iris are nice and they bloom after each other - daffodils first then tulips then iris which is nice because you then get your garden bllowming from eary spring to late spring - there are many more options- just go to a good garden center and plan it out month by month - also i would put in some wild roses if you have enough room as they just keep blooming from mid spring thru summer
Reply:150 bulbs £5 pounds asda!
Reply:There's so many. Try this link www.rhs.org.uk
Reply:Copied this entire page from http://hgic.clemson.edu. Tulips don't really do well except as annuals in most of SC. We do not get cold enough for them to rebloom well.
ALSO, forsythia is a spring blooming shrub and there are trees like the flowering cherries and apricots, as well as dogwoods. Find your local university extension office and call for more information on spring flowering plants in your area. There should be some Master Gardeners there who would be happy to help you. If you have a real garden center and not a box home improvement store in your area, they should be able to help you as well. And ask at your library for books on plants. Southern Living has a great book on gardening that has tons of plants in it. The Americal Horticultural Society also has a hardback monster of a book that has seemingly every plant in the US in it and info on them, but nowhere near enough pictures. Try not to drop it on anything, like your foot.
Hope this helps you out.
HOME %26amp; GARDEN INFORMATION CENTER
1-888-656-9988
HGIC 1155
Spring-Flowering Bulbs
Flowering bulbs like daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and crocus are some of the earliest flowers to appear in gardens each year, some starting to bloom as early as January. Many will bloom and multiply for years with minimal care, while others are best planted for one season’s show of color in our hot climate. Bulbs can be planted in flower beds, in lawns, around trees, or grown in pots or window boxes.
The term "bulb" is commonly used to refer to true bulbs and other bulb-like structures such as corms, tubers, tuberous roots and stems, and rhizomes. Bulb-like structures store food to ensure the plant’s survival during unfavorably cold or droughty weather.
Spring bulbs flower from late winter to early summer, depending on species. After bloom is finished, they continue to grow and store food for a period of time before dying back to ground level and becoming dormant through the summer and into fall. Spring-flowering bulbs start to grow roots again in the fall and winter to prepare for the following spring bloom. They are planted in the fall or early winter in South Carolina.
PLANTING BULBS
Bulbs grow best in full sun or part shade, but flowers will last longer if they do not receive midday sun. Most early flowering bulbs can be planted under deciduous trees since the bulbs will be going dormant by the time the trees provide heavy shade.
Good drainage is essential for spring-flowering bulbs. If drainage is a problem you can improve it by mixing 2 to 3 inches of organic matter such as shredded pine bark or compost into the beds 10 to 12 inches deep. Raised beds or drainage tiles can also help solve drainage problems.
It is best to apply fertilizer and lime according to the results of a soil test. The soil pH for most bulbs should be between 6 and 7.
It is not necessary to fertilize bulbs that are planted for only one season’s flowering. Permanent bulb plantings should be fertilized by one of two methods in the absence of a soil test. The first method is to mix a slow-release complete fertilizer according to label recommendations into the rooting area at planting in the fall. The second method is to mix bone meal in the rooting area at planting time with an application of quick-release fertilizer at the rate of 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet in the fall. Repeat the application of 10-10-10 as soon as you see shoots emerging in the spring.
Purchase bulbs while supplies are good during September or October, but wait to plant until cooler weather. Choose firm bulbs without mold or bruising. Store bulbs in a cool area below 60 °F until planting. Plant daffodils in October or November, but wait to plant other spring-flowering bulbs until the soil temperature at planting depth stays below 60 °F. In coastal areas, most bulbs should be planted in late December or early January.
Most bulbs require a 12- to 16- week chilling period to produce flowers. Coastal gardeners can ensure spring blooms by refrigerating bulbs in ventilated packages until planting. Avoid storing fruit near the bulbs, since fruit-produced ethylene gas can prevent blooming. When bulbs do not receive enough chilling, they bloom close to the ground, on very short stems. Some bulb suppliers sell bulbs that have already been given a chilling treatment.
In general, bulbs are planted three to four times as deep (measured from the base of the bulb) as the width of the bulb. Space bulbs in bed according to size. Large bulbs should be 3 to 6 inches apart, small bulbs 1 to 2 inches. For best appearance, plant bulbs in masses.
Cover the bed with 2 to 3 inches of mulch after planting. Mulches insulate the soil, maintain even soil moisture and prevent mud from spattering the flowers.
Normal rainfall usually provides enough moisture for spring-flowering bulbs, but in a hot or dry spring, additional water will help to prolong blooming.
Many bulbs normally send up leaves during late fall and winter. No special protection is necessary.
BULB CARE
In the spring, remove the flowers of tulips and daffodils after they fade to prevent seed formation. Leave the leaves on the plant for at least six weeks after bloom is finished or until they turn brown. This allows the energy from the leaves to build up the bulb for next year’s bloom. If you object to the appearance of yellowing leaves, try interplanting bulbs with perennials or summer annuals for camouflage. Be sure not to dig so deeply as to damage the bulbs.
Many bulbs eventually become overcrowded and must be divided and replanted for best effect. Wait to dig bulbs until the foliage has turned yellow and withered. Divided bulbs can be replanted immediately or stored in a dry, cool area for replanting in the fall. Discard any bulbs that appear diseased.
PROBLEMS
Information on disease and insect problems of flowering bulbs can be found in HGIC fact sheets 2103 and 2104.
A common and frustrating problem of bulbs is failure to bloom. This can have several causes. Bulbs may rot in soils that stay wet for a long time. Good drainage is essential. Bulbs may stop blooming if they become overcrowded or shaded too heavily. Sparse blooms on daffodils can be caused by planting too shallowly. If leaves are cut off too soon in spring, the bulb may not store enough food to bloom the following year. Many varieties of bulbs will not produce flowers a second year in Southern climates.
Animals often dig and eat tulip and crocus bulbs during the winter. They rarely eat daffodil bulbs. The only sure way to protect bulbs from animals is to enclose the bulbs in wire mesh when planting.
DAFFODILS
Daffodils (Narcissus species and hybrids) are the most successful of the popular spring bulbs for naturalizing in the South. In general, jonquil hybrids, tazetta hybrids, poeticus and species daffodils will grow reliably throughout South Carolina. Choose cultivars of large-flowered, trumpet, double and late-blooming daffodils carefully. Many will not perform well in warmer parts of the state.
Plant daffodils in mid-autumn in well-drained soil where they will receive at least six hours of sun per day while in leaf. Plant daffodils 6 to 8 inches deep, less for smaller species bulbs. Space the bulbs from 3 to 6 inches apart, based on size.
Jonquil Daffodils: Many people call almost any small yellow daffodil a jonquil. However, jonquils are a particular class of daffodils descended from the species Narcissus jonquilla. This group of daffodils typically has small, yellow flowers held in clusters of two to six sweetly fragrant blooms per stem and slender rush-like leaves. Excellent jonquil cultivars include the following:
* 'Bell Song’ is a late-blooming white cultivar with a rose pink cup. Grows 12 inches tall.
* ‘Baby Moon’ is an intensely fragrant lemon-yellow miniature that grows 8 inches tall. It blooms midseason.
* ‘Beryl’ is a 8- to 12- inch miniature with pale yellow swept-back petals. Its short golden cup is edged with orange.
* ‘Pipit’ is a long-blooming, 12- inch cultivar with a yellow and white cup.
* ‘Quail’ is golden-yellow with deeply overlapping petals and a well-defined cup.
* ‘Sundial’ has fragrant golden-yellow, saucer-shaped blooms with a deep golden flat cup. It grows 8 inches tall.
* ‘Sweetness’ is a yellow hybrid which usually comes with one bloom per stem. The fragrant blooms are about 2 inches in diameter.
* ‘Trevithian’ is an exceptionally fragrant deep yellow that blooms early and increases well.
* ‘Waterperry’ has white petals framing a cup of light yellow that blushes to peachy-pink at maturity. It achieves best color in partial shade. Grows 12 inches tall.
Tazetta Daffodils: Many people call this group of daffodils "narcissus," although properly that name refers to all daffodils. Tazettas bloom prolifically with tight clusters of four to eight or more small flowers in mid-to late winter. Most have a very intense fragrance. Many tazettas, especially the paperwhites, are used for indoor forcing since they do not require a chilling period. This also makes them ideal for growing outdoors in warmer areas of South Carolina. Some tazettas are hardy only in coastal areas, while others will grow throughout the state.
* ‘Avalanche’ is an excellent naturalizer that has been grown since the 1700s as "Seventeen Sisters." It grows 16 inches tall with clusters of up to 20 flowers with white petals and yellow cups.
* Chinese Sacred Lily (N. tazetta var. orientalis) is hardy only in coastal areas. It is vigorous, with white petals, deep yellow cups and a sweet fragrance.
* ‘Cragford’ has deeply fragrant clusters of rounded blooms with white petals and small red-orange cups. It grows 14 inches tall.
* ‘Erlicheer’ is one of the best double-flowering daffodils for the South. This vigorous cultivar has clusters of 15 to 20 creamy white and gold fragrant flowers per 12- to 14- inch stem.
* ‘Geranium’ grows to 16 inches with three to five flowers per stem with white petals with an orange-red cup. This very fragrant cultivar perennializes well and blooms late midseason.
* ‘Grand Soleil d’Or’ is popular for forcing indoors but will grow outdoors on the coast. Yellow petals frame orange cups with a fruity fragrance. It grows to 12 inches.
* ‘Minnow’ is a 6- inch miniature tazetta with clusters of light yellow blooms.
Poets Narcissus: This is one of the few late-blooming dafffodils that do really well in warm climates. Poets narcissus will also tolerate damp soil. They have broad, pure white petals with a tiny cup with a green center and a rim of bright orange or red. They are intensely fragrant, with a characteristic spicy scent.
* ‘Actaea’ has a striking yellow eye rimmed with red. Grows to 18 inches.
* Pheasant’s eye (N. poeticus var. recurvus) is an old cultivar with creamy white petals and an orange cup. It is very late-blooming.
Species Daffodils: Several of the wild ancestors of our modern large-flowered daffodils are very well adapted-to growing in the South. They can often be seen naturalized near long-gone home sites.
* N. jonquilla is the true jonquil with two to three richly scented, deep yellow flowers per stem late in the season. It grows 6 inches tall.
* N. gracilis has delightfully fragrant yellow flowers with tiny, yellow-green eyes. This late bloomer grows 10 inches tall.
* Single Campernelle (N. x odorus) is a very old cultivar with two to three golden, fragrant flowers per stem. It grows 12 inches tall.
* Double Campernelle or Queen Anne’s Double Jonquil (N. x odorus plenus) is an unusual old double with small, fragrant, deep yellow blossoms that are very full.
* Lent Lily (N. pseudonarcissus) is early-blooming with long trumpets and forward-swept petals that give it an informal, wild look. The flower color varies from cream to deep yellow.
Large-flowered daffodils recommended as reliable perennials for the South include: ‘Accent,’ ‘Barret Browning,’ ‘Carbineer,’ ‘Carlton,’ ‘Ceylon,’ ‘Duke of Windsor,’ ‘Falstaff,’ ‘Fortune,’ ‘Gigantic Star,’ ‘Ice Follies,’ ‘Mount Hood,’ ‘Mrs R.O. Backhouse,’ and ‘Saint Patrick’s Day’. Large daffodils should be divided and crowded bulbs thinned every three or four years to maintain vigorous blooming.
TULIPS
Tulips can usually only be counted on for a single season of color in South Carolina. They are treated like annual flowers, dug and discarded after they have bloomed in the spring. To ensure spring-flowering in Central and Coastal South Carolina, refrigerate bulbs from the time of purchase until planting in November to late December. Plant tulip bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart.
Hybrid tulips are divided into a number of groups based on form and bloom time. The best for South Carolina gardens include:
Single Late Tulips: These tulips are one of the best groups for growing in warm climates. They have long-strong stems with deep, cup-shaped blooms in a wide range of colors. They grow between 14 and 30 inches tall. This group includes tulips formerly classified as Darwins and cottage tulips. Recommended cultivars include ‘Halcro’ (vibrant red); ‘Queen of Night’ (deep dark maroon); ‘Renown’ (rose-pink); ‘Menton’ (apricot-pink with inside of poppy red); ‘Maureen’ (pure white); ‘Makeup’ (ivory white with red edge); ‘Temple of Beauty’ salmon-rose); and ‘Hocus Pocus’ (yellow-tipped pink).
Darwin Hybrid: These tall tulips have the largest blooms of all tulips on strong stems in mid-spring. Good varieties for South Carolina include: ‘Apeldoorn’ (red); ‘Golden Apeldoorn’ (yellow); ‘Olympic Flame’ (red streaked with yellow); ‘Parade’ (dark red with black base edged yellow); ‘Pink Impression’; and ‘Daydream’ (orange and yellow).
Lily-Flowered: These tulips have pointed blooms with arched petals on strong stems in mid-season. Excellent varieties include ‘West Point’ (yellow), ‘White Triumphator’ (white); ‘Red Shine’ (red); ‘Mona Lisa’ (red and white); and ‘Marilyn’ (white streaked rosy-pink).
Species Tulips: A few species tulips are from warm climates and don't need a cold period to flower. The following will naturalize in the South.
* T. bakeri ‘Lilac Wonder’ has small, starlike lilac-pink flowers with a yellow heart.
* Lady Tulip (T. clusiana) has flowers that look like a peppermint stick. The red and white flowers on 12- to 14- inch stems open in the sun to form a star.
* T. eichleri has big, red and yellow striped flowers with pointed petals. This vigorous tulip flowers in early spring at 10 to 12 inches tall.
* T. saxatilis has mauve-pink flowers with yellow bases on 12 to 14 inch stems. This tulip needs poor soil, moderate winters and hot summers.
* T. batalinii has small, lightly fragrant flowers in pinkish red, lemon, apricot or peach. It grows to 6 inches tall.
HYACINTHS
Few flowers can surpass the extensive color range and fragrance of hyacinths. Hyacinths can be left in the ground to multiply in the upper Piedmont, but flower size will decline as the bulbs multiply. If you want to have large flowers every year, dig the bulbs after the leaves wither and store to replant, or purchase new bulbs each fall. Roman hyacinths (H. orientalis albulus) have smaller flowers but are more persistent.
Hyacinths will need six to eight weeks of refrigeration in order to bloom in coastal areas. Wait to plant hyacinths until the soil temperature stays below 60 °F. This could be late October or November in the upper Piedmont to late December or early January in Coastal South Carolina. Plant hyacinth bulbs in full sun 3 to 6 inches apart 4 to 6 inches deep.
CROCUSES
Crocus are one of the earliest-flowering spring bulbs. Many begin blooming in late winter. Plant crocuses in full sun or light shade in November, 3 inches deep and 3 to 4 inches apart. Separate overcrowded clumps and replant every few years after the foliage begins to wither.
The showy, large-flowered Dutch crocus do not naturalize as well as some of the earlier-flowering crocus species and cultivars. Excellent crocus for growing throughout South Carolina include: Cloth of Gold Crocus (C. angustifolius), Snow Crocus (C. chrysanthus), Tommies (Crocus tommasinianus) and their cultivars.
OTHER BULBS
Irises (Iris sp.): The small yellow Danford Iris (I. danfordiae) and the blue Iris reticulata are rarely perennial in South Carolina but are beautiful, early, jewellike flowers. They bloom on 6-inch stems in early spring. Dutch iris (I. x hollandica) grow to 20 inches tall and thrive in soil that becomes dry and warm in summer. The flowers have an elegant, airy form. They are available in several shades of blue, white, purple and yellow.
Ornamental Onions (Allium species): These beautiful relatives of onions have small flowers in globular clusters that range from just an inch wide to over 8 inches across. The flower colors range from white to bright yellow, lavender, blue and deep magenta. Some are less than a foot tall, while others can grow to 4 feet tall or even more. Some of the best alliums for the South are the Naples onion (A. neopolitanum), the drumstick allium (A. sphaerocephalon), Allium ostrowkianum and the star of Persia (A. christophii). All bloom in late spring.
Anemone (Anemone species): The two anemones commonly grown from bulbs (actually small tubers) are Grecian windflowers (Anemone blanda) and poppy anemones (Anemone coronaria). The low-growing, early-blooming windflowers are blue, white or pink. They grow best in the Upstate. Poppy anemones have larger crimson, violet, pink or white flowers. They may need to be replanted every few years, since the foliage emerges in fall and is sensitive to hard freezing. Soak anemone tubers overnight before planting.
Spanish Bluebell (Endymion hispanica): This is a late spring-flowering bulb for naturalizing in woodsy areas. It bears tall flower spikes of blue, pink or white. This species will thrive throughout South Carolina.
Star Flower (Ipheion uniflorum): Starflower produces abundant bluish-white flowers on 6- to 8- inch plants. This easy bulb grows in sun or part shade throughout the state. It is excellent for naturalizing and multiplies rapidly.
Summer Snowflake (Leucojum aestivum): This easy bulb actually blooms in mid-to late spring. Small, white, bell-shaped flowers tipped with green are borne on each 20-inch stem. They are good for naturalizing and are one of the few bulbs that will grow in damp soil. Snowflakes are often called snowdrops, but unlike true snowdrops (Galanthus species), they grow well in hot areas.
Grape Hyacinths (Muscari species):The fragrant purple flower clusters resemble tiny clusters of grapes. Grape hyacinths are easy to grow, and naturalize quickly. They are early-blooming and are often interplanted with other spring bulbs. Most grow to about 6 inches. Blue bottles, or starch hyacinths (Muscari neglectum) and feather hyacinths (M. comosum plumosum) grow especially well in the South.
Prepared by Karen Russ, HGIC Information Specialist, and Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University
This information is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service is implied. All recommendations are for South Carolina conditions and may not apply to other areas. All recommendations for pesticide use are for South Carolina only and were legal at the time of publication, but the status of registration and use patterns are subject to change by action of state and federal regulatory agencies. Follow all directions, precautions and restrictions that are listed. (New 6/ 99)
The Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service
offers its programs to people of all ages, regardless of race, color, sex, religion, national origin, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, marital or family status and is an equal opportunity employer.
Clemson University Cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture, South Carolina Counties, Extension Service, Clemson, South Carolina. Issued in Furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914
Public Service Activities
Reply:Garlic. Plant by the fall equinox and harvest on the longest day of the year.
Reply:Try spring phlox ground cover and a forsythia bush.
Reply:If you want a beautiful display of spring bulbs (tulips, crocus, snowdrops, grape hyacinths etc) now or a little later in the year is a good time to plant them.
Reply:spring cabbage, broccoli
Reply:Weeds.
Reply:Any spring bulb can be planted in the fall - go to www.Brecks.com - they have many bulbs and also offer tips for planting and caring for them. Spring bulbs include Crocus and Tulips.
Reply:Do you mean to flower in the early spring? Crocuses snowdrops winter aconites , Chionadoxa, some of the early cyclamens, minature narcissi such as "February gold" and "tete-a-tete".
Reply:BULBS!! tulips, crocus
http://www.thegardenhelper.com/springbul...
http://www.eastendcommunity.com/plants/s...
Reply:Tulips, i suppose...
Reply:Any RHS book will help you out. But in the meantime try.....Muscari, Tulips, Crocus, Magnolia, Clematis. It really depends on your soil type, amount of sun/shade. For inspiration go to www.crocus.co.uk, they have some ideas. Good luck
Reply:You can plant any spring bulbs like some lillies, tulips. Also try any perenials - they will winter well and perk up in spring.
Grab some lavender form B%26amp;Q which sell cheap packs of 8 for about £5 and this cn fill a space although will not be flowering in spring. Alot of grasses will continue to grow over winter abeit slowly, just check you are choosing ones which do not die back to the roots.
What can I plant in my garden now that will grow by spring ? I know daffodils, what else?
loads of tulips, snowdrops, grape hyacinths, irises. We just got 500 from our garden centre %26amp; were told that stocks will be low this autumn because of the drought.
Reply:bulbs, bulbs and mors bulbs - tulips and iris are nice and they bloom after each other - daffodils first then tulips then iris which is nice because you then get your garden bllowming from eary spring to late spring - there are many more options- just go to a good garden center and plan it out month by month - also i would put in some wild roses if you have enough room as they just keep blooming from mid spring thru summer
Reply:150 bulbs £5 pounds asda!
Reply:There's so many. Try this link www.rhs.org.uk
Reply:Copied this entire page from http://hgic.clemson.edu. Tulips don't really do well except as annuals in most of SC. We do not get cold enough for them to rebloom well.
ALSO, forsythia is a spring blooming shrub and there are trees like the flowering cherries and apricots, as well as dogwoods. Find your local university extension office and call for more information on spring flowering plants in your area. There should be some Master Gardeners there who would be happy to help you. If you have a real garden center and not a box home improvement store in your area, they should be able to help you as well. And ask at your library for books on plants. Southern Living has a great book on gardening that has tons of plants in it. The Americal Horticultural Society also has a hardback monster of a book that has seemingly every plant in the US in it and info on them, but nowhere near enough pictures. Try not to drop it on anything, like your foot.
Hope this helps you out.
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HGIC 1155
Spring-Flowering Bulbs
Flowering bulbs like daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and crocus are some of the earliest flowers to appear in gardens each year, some starting to bloom as early as January. Many will bloom and multiply for years with minimal care, while others are best planted for one season’s show of color in our hot climate. Bulbs can be planted in flower beds, in lawns, around trees, or grown in pots or window boxes.
The term "bulb" is commonly used to refer to true bulbs and other bulb-like structures such as corms, tubers, tuberous roots and stems, and rhizomes. Bulb-like structures store food to ensure the plant’s survival during unfavorably cold or droughty weather.
Spring bulbs flower from late winter to early summer, depending on species. After bloom is finished, they continue to grow and store food for a period of time before dying back to ground level and becoming dormant through the summer and into fall. Spring-flowering bulbs start to grow roots again in the fall and winter to prepare for the following spring bloom. They are planted in the fall or early winter in South Carolina.
PLANTING BULBS
Bulbs grow best in full sun or part shade, but flowers will last longer if they do not receive midday sun. Most early flowering bulbs can be planted under deciduous trees since the bulbs will be going dormant by the time the trees provide heavy shade.
Good drainage is essential for spring-flowering bulbs. If drainage is a problem you can improve it by mixing 2 to 3 inches of organic matter such as shredded pine bark or compost into the beds 10 to 12 inches deep. Raised beds or drainage tiles can also help solve drainage problems.
It is best to apply fertilizer and lime according to the results of a soil test. The soil pH for most bulbs should be between 6 and 7.
It is not necessary to fertilize bulbs that are planted for only one season’s flowering. Permanent bulb plantings should be fertilized by one of two methods in the absence of a soil test. The first method is to mix a slow-release complete fertilizer according to label recommendations into the rooting area at planting in the fall. The second method is to mix bone meal in the rooting area at planting time with an application of quick-release fertilizer at the rate of 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet in the fall. Repeat the application of 10-10-10 as soon as you see shoots emerging in the spring.
Purchase bulbs while supplies are good during September or October, but wait to plant until cooler weather. Choose firm bulbs without mold or bruising. Store bulbs in a cool area below 60 °F until planting. Plant daffodils in October or November, but wait to plant other spring-flowering bulbs until the soil temperature at planting depth stays below 60 °F. In coastal areas, most bulbs should be planted in late December or early January.
Most bulbs require a 12- to 16- week chilling period to produce flowers. Coastal gardeners can ensure spring blooms by refrigerating bulbs in ventilated packages until planting. Avoid storing fruit near the bulbs, since fruit-produced ethylene gas can prevent blooming. When bulbs do not receive enough chilling, they bloom close to the ground, on very short stems. Some bulb suppliers sell bulbs that have already been given a chilling treatment.
In general, bulbs are planted three to four times as deep (measured from the base of the bulb) as the width of the bulb. Space bulbs in bed according to size. Large bulbs should be 3 to 6 inches apart, small bulbs 1 to 2 inches. For best appearance, plant bulbs in masses.
Cover the bed with 2 to 3 inches of mulch after planting. Mulches insulate the soil, maintain even soil moisture and prevent mud from spattering the flowers.
Normal rainfall usually provides enough moisture for spring-flowering bulbs, but in a hot or dry spring, additional water will help to prolong blooming.
Many bulbs normally send up leaves during late fall and winter. No special protection is necessary.
BULB CARE
In the spring, remove the flowers of tulips and daffodils after they fade to prevent seed formation. Leave the leaves on the plant for at least six weeks after bloom is finished or until they turn brown. This allows the energy from the leaves to build up the bulb for next year’s bloom. If you object to the appearance of yellowing leaves, try interplanting bulbs with perennials or summer annuals for camouflage. Be sure not to dig so deeply as to damage the bulbs.
Many bulbs eventually become overcrowded and must be divided and replanted for best effect. Wait to dig bulbs until the foliage has turned yellow and withered. Divided bulbs can be replanted immediately or stored in a dry, cool area for replanting in the fall. Discard any bulbs that appear diseased.
PROBLEMS
Information on disease and insect problems of flowering bulbs can be found in HGIC fact sheets 2103 and 2104.
A common and frustrating problem of bulbs is failure to bloom. This can have several causes. Bulbs may rot in soils that stay wet for a long time. Good drainage is essential. Bulbs may stop blooming if they become overcrowded or shaded too heavily. Sparse blooms on daffodils can be caused by planting too shallowly. If leaves are cut off too soon in spring, the bulb may not store enough food to bloom the following year. Many varieties of bulbs will not produce flowers a second year in Southern climates.
Animals often dig and eat tulip and crocus bulbs during the winter. They rarely eat daffodil bulbs. The only sure way to protect bulbs from animals is to enclose the bulbs in wire mesh when planting.
DAFFODILS
Daffodils (Narcissus species and hybrids) are the most successful of the popular spring bulbs for naturalizing in the South. In general, jonquil hybrids, tazetta hybrids, poeticus and species daffodils will grow reliably throughout South Carolina. Choose cultivars of large-flowered, trumpet, double and late-blooming daffodils carefully. Many will not perform well in warmer parts of the state.
Plant daffodils in mid-autumn in well-drained soil where they will receive at least six hours of sun per day while in leaf. Plant daffodils 6 to 8 inches deep, less for smaller species bulbs. Space the bulbs from 3 to 6 inches apart, based on size.
Jonquil Daffodils: Many people call almost any small yellow daffodil a jonquil. However, jonquils are a particular class of daffodils descended from the species Narcissus jonquilla. This group of daffodils typically has small, yellow flowers held in clusters of two to six sweetly fragrant blooms per stem and slender rush-like leaves. Excellent jonquil cultivars include the following:
* 'Bell Song’ is a late-blooming white cultivar with a rose pink cup. Grows 12 inches tall.
* ‘Baby Moon’ is an intensely fragrant lemon-yellow miniature that grows 8 inches tall. It blooms midseason.
* ‘Beryl’ is a 8- to 12- inch miniature with pale yellow swept-back petals. Its short golden cup is edged with orange.
* ‘Pipit’ is a long-blooming, 12- inch cultivar with a yellow and white cup.
* ‘Quail’ is golden-yellow with deeply overlapping petals and a well-defined cup.
* ‘Sundial’ has fragrant golden-yellow, saucer-shaped blooms with a deep golden flat cup. It grows 8 inches tall.
* ‘Sweetness’ is a yellow hybrid which usually comes with one bloom per stem. The fragrant blooms are about 2 inches in diameter.
* ‘Trevithian’ is an exceptionally fragrant deep yellow that blooms early and increases well.
* ‘Waterperry’ has white petals framing a cup of light yellow that blushes to peachy-pink at maturity. It achieves best color in partial shade. Grows 12 inches tall.
Tazetta Daffodils: Many people call this group of daffodils "narcissus," although properly that name refers to all daffodils. Tazettas bloom prolifically with tight clusters of four to eight or more small flowers in mid-to late winter. Most have a very intense fragrance. Many tazettas, especially the paperwhites, are used for indoor forcing since they do not require a chilling period. This also makes them ideal for growing outdoors in warmer areas of South Carolina. Some tazettas are hardy only in coastal areas, while others will grow throughout the state.
* ‘Avalanche’ is an excellent naturalizer that has been grown since the 1700s as "Seventeen Sisters." It grows 16 inches tall with clusters of up to 20 flowers with white petals and yellow cups.
* Chinese Sacred Lily (N. tazetta var. orientalis) is hardy only in coastal areas. It is vigorous, with white petals, deep yellow cups and a sweet fragrance.
* ‘Cragford’ has deeply fragrant clusters of rounded blooms with white petals and small red-orange cups. It grows 14 inches tall.
* ‘Erlicheer’ is one of the best double-flowering daffodils for the South. This vigorous cultivar has clusters of 15 to 20 creamy white and gold fragrant flowers per 12- to 14- inch stem.
* ‘Geranium’ grows to 16 inches with three to five flowers per stem with white petals with an orange-red cup. This very fragrant cultivar perennializes well and blooms late midseason.
* ‘Grand Soleil d’Or’ is popular for forcing indoors but will grow outdoors on the coast. Yellow petals frame orange cups with a fruity fragrance. It grows to 12 inches.
* ‘Minnow’ is a 6- inch miniature tazetta with clusters of light yellow blooms.
Poets Narcissus: This is one of the few late-blooming dafffodils that do really well in warm climates. Poets narcissus will also tolerate damp soil. They have broad, pure white petals with a tiny cup with a green center and a rim of bright orange or red. They are intensely fragrant, with a characteristic spicy scent.
* ‘Actaea’ has a striking yellow eye rimmed with red. Grows to 18 inches.
* Pheasant’s eye (N. poeticus var. recurvus) is an old cultivar with creamy white petals and an orange cup. It is very late-blooming.
Species Daffodils: Several of the wild ancestors of our modern large-flowered daffodils are very well adapted-to growing in the South. They can often be seen naturalized near long-gone home sites.
* N. jonquilla is the true jonquil with two to three richly scented, deep yellow flowers per stem late in the season. It grows 6 inches tall.
* N. gracilis has delightfully fragrant yellow flowers with tiny, yellow-green eyes. This late bloomer grows 10 inches tall.
* Single Campernelle (N. x odorus) is a very old cultivar with two to three golden, fragrant flowers per stem. It grows 12 inches tall.
* Double Campernelle or Queen Anne’s Double Jonquil (N. x odorus plenus) is an unusual old double with small, fragrant, deep yellow blossoms that are very full.
* Lent Lily (N. pseudonarcissus) is early-blooming with long trumpets and forward-swept petals that give it an informal, wild look. The flower color varies from cream to deep yellow.
Large-flowered daffodils recommended as reliable perennials for the South include: ‘Accent,’ ‘Barret Browning,’ ‘Carbineer,’ ‘Carlton,’ ‘Ceylon,’ ‘Duke of Windsor,’ ‘Falstaff,’ ‘Fortune,’ ‘Gigantic Star,’ ‘Ice Follies,’ ‘Mount Hood,’ ‘Mrs R.O. Backhouse,’ and ‘Saint Patrick’s Day’. Large daffodils should be divided and crowded bulbs thinned every three or four years to maintain vigorous blooming.
TULIPS
Tulips can usually only be counted on for a single season of color in South Carolina. They are treated like annual flowers, dug and discarded after they have bloomed in the spring. To ensure spring-flowering in Central and Coastal South Carolina, refrigerate bulbs from the time of purchase until planting in November to late December. Plant tulip bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart.
Hybrid tulips are divided into a number of groups based on form and bloom time. The best for South Carolina gardens include:
Single Late Tulips: These tulips are one of the best groups for growing in warm climates. They have long-strong stems with deep, cup-shaped blooms in a wide range of colors. They grow between 14 and 30 inches tall. This group includes tulips formerly classified as Darwins and cottage tulips. Recommended cultivars include ‘Halcro’ (vibrant red); ‘Queen of Night’ (deep dark maroon); ‘Renown’ (rose-pink); ‘Menton’ (apricot-pink with inside of poppy red); ‘Maureen’ (pure white); ‘Makeup’ (ivory white with red edge); ‘Temple of Beauty’ salmon-rose); and ‘Hocus Pocus’ (yellow-tipped pink).
Darwin Hybrid: These tall tulips have the largest blooms of all tulips on strong stems in mid-spring. Good varieties for South Carolina include: ‘Apeldoorn’ (red); ‘Golden Apeldoorn’ (yellow); ‘Olympic Flame’ (red streaked with yellow); ‘Parade’ (dark red with black base edged yellow); ‘Pink Impression’; and ‘Daydream’ (orange and yellow).
Lily-Flowered: These tulips have pointed blooms with arched petals on strong stems in mid-season. Excellent varieties include ‘West Point’ (yellow), ‘White Triumphator’ (white); ‘Red Shine’ (red); ‘Mona Lisa’ (red and white); and ‘Marilyn’ (white streaked rosy-pink).
Species Tulips: A few species tulips are from warm climates and don't need a cold period to flower. The following will naturalize in the South.
* T. bakeri ‘Lilac Wonder’ has small, starlike lilac-pink flowers with a yellow heart.
* Lady Tulip (T. clusiana) has flowers that look like a peppermint stick. The red and white flowers on 12- to 14- inch stems open in the sun to form a star.
* T. eichleri has big, red and yellow striped flowers with pointed petals. This vigorous tulip flowers in early spring at 10 to 12 inches tall.
* T. saxatilis has mauve-pink flowers with yellow bases on 12 to 14 inch stems. This tulip needs poor soil, moderate winters and hot summers.
* T. batalinii has small, lightly fragrant flowers in pinkish red, lemon, apricot or peach. It grows to 6 inches tall.
HYACINTHS
Few flowers can surpass the extensive color range and fragrance of hyacinths. Hyacinths can be left in the ground to multiply in the upper Piedmont, but flower size will decline as the bulbs multiply. If you want to have large flowers every year, dig the bulbs after the leaves wither and store to replant, or purchase new bulbs each fall. Roman hyacinths (H. orientalis albulus) have smaller flowers but are more persistent.
Hyacinths will need six to eight weeks of refrigeration in order to bloom in coastal areas. Wait to plant hyacinths until the soil temperature stays below 60 °F. This could be late October or November in the upper Piedmont to late December or early January in Coastal South Carolina. Plant hyacinth bulbs in full sun 3 to 6 inches apart 4 to 6 inches deep.
CROCUSES
Crocus are one of the earliest-flowering spring bulbs. Many begin blooming in late winter. Plant crocuses in full sun or light shade in November, 3 inches deep and 3 to 4 inches apart. Separate overcrowded clumps and replant every few years after the foliage begins to wither.
The showy, large-flowered Dutch crocus do not naturalize as well as some of the earlier-flowering crocus species and cultivars. Excellent crocus for growing throughout South Carolina include: Cloth of Gold Crocus (C. angustifolius), Snow Crocus (C. chrysanthus), Tommies (Crocus tommasinianus) and their cultivars.
OTHER BULBS
Irises (Iris sp.): The small yellow Danford Iris (I. danfordiae) and the blue Iris reticulata are rarely perennial in South Carolina but are beautiful, early, jewellike flowers. They bloom on 6-inch stems in early spring. Dutch iris (I. x hollandica) grow to 20 inches tall and thrive in soil that becomes dry and warm in summer. The flowers have an elegant, airy form. They are available in several shades of blue, white, purple and yellow.
Ornamental Onions (Allium species): These beautiful relatives of onions have small flowers in globular clusters that range from just an inch wide to over 8 inches across. The flower colors range from white to bright yellow, lavender, blue and deep magenta. Some are less than a foot tall, while others can grow to 4 feet tall or even more. Some of the best alliums for the South are the Naples onion (A. neopolitanum), the drumstick allium (A. sphaerocephalon), Allium ostrowkianum and the star of Persia (A. christophii). All bloom in late spring.
Anemone (Anemone species): The two anemones commonly grown from bulbs (actually small tubers) are Grecian windflowers (Anemone blanda) and poppy anemones (Anemone coronaria). The low-growing, early-blooming windflowers are blue, white or pink. They grow best in the Upstate. Poppy anemones have larger crimson, violet, pink or white flowers. They may need to be replanted every few years, since the foliage emerges in fall and is sensitive to hard freezing. Soak anemone tubers overnight before planting.
Spanish Bluebell (Endymion hispanica): This is a late spring-flowering bulb for naturalizing in woodsy areas. It bears tall flower spikes of blue, pink or white. This species will thrive throughout South Carolina.
Star Flower (Ipheion uniflorum): Starflower produces abundant bluish-white flowers on 6- to 8- inch plants. This easy bulb grows in sun or part shade throughout the state. It is excellent for naturalizing and multiplies rapidly.
Summer Snowflake (Leucojum aestivum): This easy bulb actually blooms in mid-to late spring. Small, white, bell-shaped flowers tipped with green are borne on each 20-inch stem. They are good for naturalizing and are one of the few bulbs that will grow in damp soil. Snowflakes are often called snowdrops, but unlike true snowdrops (Galanthus species), they grow well in hot areas.
Grape Hyacinths (Muscari species):The fragrant purple flower clusters resemble tiny clusters of grapes. Grape hyacinths are easy to grow, and naturalize quickly. They are early-blooming and are often interplanted with other spring bulbs. Most grow to about 6 inches. Blue bottles, or starch hyacinths (Muscari neglectum) and feather hyacinths (M. comosum plumosum) grow especially well in the South.
Prepared by Karen Russ, HGIC Information Specialist, and Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University
This information is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service is implied. All recommendations are for South Carolina conditions and may not apply to other areas. All recommendations for pesticide use are for South Carolina only and were legal at the time of publication, but the status of registration and use patterns are subject to change by action of state and federal regulatory agencies. Follow all directions, precautions and restrictions that are listed. (New 6/ 99)
The Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service
offers its programs to people of all ages, regardless of race, color, sex, religion, national origin, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, marital or family status and is an equal opportunity employer.
Clemson University Cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture, South Carolina Counties, Extension Service, Clemson, South Carolina. Issued in Furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914
Public Service Activities
Reply:Garlic. Plant by the fall equinox and harvest on the longest day of the year.
Reply:Try spring phlox ground cover and a forsythia bush.
Reply:If you want a beautiful display of spring bulbs (tulips, crocus, snowdrops, grape hyacinths etc) now or a little later in the year is a good time to plant them.
Reply:spring cabbage, broccoli
Reply:Weeds.
Reply:Any spring bulb can be planted in the fall - go to www.Brecks.com - they have many bulbs and also offer tips for planting and caring for them. Spring bulbs include Crocus and Tulips.
Reply:Do you mean to flower in the early spring? Crocuses snowdrops winter aconites , Chionadoxa, some of the early cyclamens, minature narcissi such as "February gold" and "tete-a-tete".
Reply:BULBS!! tulips, crocus
http://www.thegardenhelper.com/springbul...
http://www.eastendcommunity.com/plants/s...
Reply:Tulips, i suppose...
Reply:Any RHS book will help you out. But in the meantime try.....Muscari, Tulips, Crocus, Magnolia, Clematis. It really depends on your soil type, amount of sun/shade. For inspiration go to www.crocus.co.uk, they have some ideas. Good luck
Reply:You can plant any spring bulbs like some lillies, tulips. Also try any perenials - they will winter well and perk up in spring.
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